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Routes in 01: No Sweat

Byrd aka No Sweat Overhang, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mongo Fury T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mongo Mantle, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Sweat T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
T-Bomb TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome Wagon (Jax's Truck Stop) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 477 total · 4/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on Sep 28, 2009
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Found to the left and around corner from the route Mongo Fury. Climbs small rib via small but positive holds up to large horizontal then up crystalline flake to crux mantle move and then final odd groove above. Route appears as only a number in guidebooks and is very short but well worth an on-sight lead attempt.

Location

Found to the left and around corner from the route Mongo Fury. Next buttress back from and right of the "No Sweat" overhang route which is the first major climbable rock formation one comes to when walking up CCC trail from the East Bluff car park.

Protection

Pretty good small cams in horizontals and small wires behind flake, Wires and cams in upper groove. First 8 feet has no gear to speak of so get a good spot.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Burt's start ("climb the small rib") is quite a sandbag. The left start (given in Swartling & Mayer) is somewhat un-aesthetic - easy and not really in a line with the rest of the route. However, we both finally opened our eyes and realized you can just start around the corner to the right on "Mongo Fury" - this protects well, makes the climb a single sweeping line, and is about the right grade. Jun 6, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
The gear is there, but not a gimme. Luckily, the stances are great while you ponder. Jun 6, 2016

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