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Routes in Hot Tamale Wall

Big Jake Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Whiskey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Caballero Del Norte S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Charro S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Digital Stimulation S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hey Mr. Vacquero S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hot Tamale Baby S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
In God's Country S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jake and the Neverland Cowboys S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mexican Rodeo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Osita S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Popo Agie Pocket Pool S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ruby Shooter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shootist, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind River Rose S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windy City S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Chris Oates
Page Views: 775 total · 8/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 28, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Caballero Del Norte is clearly one of the best 5.11s on The Main Wall, offering continuous climbing on excellent rock. Despite its intimidating appearance, this is a great warmup for the harder lines, or a worthy objective in its own right. This line is rather exposed and bakes in the sun most of the day, so get here early.

A few trivial moves lead to the low bulge. Make a big span to slopey pockets in the horizontal break. This move is not as hard as it looks, even for shorter folks (<5'6") who will benefit from the use of a good intermediate incut edge. Climb up into the scoop & a good shake. Cruxy moves lead onto the slab above. Follow the slab to the rounded break & a great rest. Continue up into another scoop, below a small rooflet. Sequential pockets & edges surmount the subtle bulge, and a few more engaging moves lead to the anchor.

Location

The center of the Hot Tamale Wall has a series of four routes with a yellow roof that begins ~ 8' off the deck. This is the rightmost of these 4 routes. Also, this is the next route left of bolted "Windy City" dihedral.

Protection

Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. Stick clip recommended.

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