Type: Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: Chris Oates 1993
Page Views: 1,663 total · 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


24 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Caballero Del Norte is clearly one of the best 5.11s on The Main Wall, offering continuous climbing on excellent rock. Despite its intimidating appearance, this is a great warmup for the harder lines, or a worthy objective in its own right. This line is rather exposed and bakes in the sun most of the day, so get here early.

A few trivial moves lead to the low bulge. Make a big span to slopey pockets in the horizontal break. This move is not as hard as it looks, even for shorter folks (<5'6") who will benefit from the use of a good intermediate incut edge. Climb up into the scoop & a good shake. Cruxy moves lead onto the slab above. Follow the slab to the rounded break & a great rest. Continue up into another scoop, below a small rooflet. Sequential pockets & edges surmount the subtle bulge, and a few more engaging moves lead to the anchor.

Location Suggest change

The center of the Hot Tamale Wall has a series of four routes with a yellow roof that begins ~ 8' off the deck. This is the rightmost of these 4 routes. Also, this is the next route left of bolted "Windy City" dihedral.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

loading