Caballero Del Norte
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 24 votes
Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
FA: | Chris Oates 1993 |
Page Views: | 1,663 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Sep 28, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Caballero Del Norte is clearly one of the best 5.11s on The Main Wall, offering continuous climbing on excellent rock. Despite its intimidating appearance, this is a great warmup for the harder lines, or a worthy objective in its own right. This line is rather exposed and bakes in the sun most of the day, so get here early.
A few trivial moves lead to the low bulge. Make a big span to slopey pockets in the horizontal break. This move is not as hard as it looks, even for shorter folks (<5'6") who will benefit from the use of a good intermediate incut edge. Climb up into the scoop & a good shake. Cruxy moves lead onto the slab above. Follow the slab to the rounded break & a great rest. Continue up into another scoop, below a small rooflet. Sequential pockets & edges surmount the subtle bulge, and a few more engaging moves lead to the anchor.
A few trivial moves lead to the low bulge. Make a big span to slopey pockets in the horizontal break. This move is not as hard as it looks, even for shorter folks (<5'6") who will benefit from the use of a good intermediate incut edge. Climb up into the scoop & a good shake. Cruxy moves lead onto the slab above. Follow the slab to the rounded break & a great rest. Continue up into another scoop, below a small rooflet. Sequential pockets & edges surmount the subtle bulge, and a few more engaging moves lead to the anchor.
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