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Routes in Dozier Dome

Angelic Upstart T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Avocados and Tequila T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bit by Bit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bull Dozier T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cheeseburgers and Beer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheetos and Everclear S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dozier Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dumpster Evangelist T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Errett By Bit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Errett Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Felsic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holdless Horror T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Isostacy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Loud and Obnoxious S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Plutonics S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Read Between the Lines TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ripple T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Scandalous Summer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tourette's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ursula T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
You, Me, and the Dike T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 470 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Brian Law, George Ridgley, Linda Jarit
Page Views: 1,744 total, 17/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Sep 28, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Beautiful rock with a great mix of face and crack climbing. Second pitch requires some careful route finding for the easiest path. There is a bit of R-rated climbing, but the gear is there and the stances to place it from are comfortable.

Pitch one: 50 feet of 4th class to a ledge. Gear anchor.

Pitch two: (5.8R) Climb a right trending ramp to an obvious downward pointing roof/flake, get gear, then pull onto the flake and face climb up and left to another right facing flake which takes gear. Climb up and left to another, smaller right facing flake that takes a small cam and then go a ways up and left to a subtle right trending ramp in the area with the brightest white rock (a bit of small gear here). Follow the right trending ramp up and back right to the first bolt. Climb up past three more bolts to a double bolt anchor with chains.

The crux is well protected with bolts, but you do need to climb some 5.7R between gear placements before the bolts. Excellent climbing. 160-170 feet.

Pitch three: (5.6) Face climb up and right for 40 feet, aiming for a hand crack. You can get some gear before the crack, but you need to use runners. This part is a bit run out, but very easy climbing, maybe 5.4. Follow the pretty 5.6 hand crack to a two bolt anchor with chains. Full 200 feet.

Pitch four: (5.8) Climb straight up from the belay over bulges past 3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains. 60 feet.

Location

Location: Approx. 100 feet left of Holdless Horror (obvious wide crack running from the bottom to the top of Dozier Dome). 50 feet from the ground there is an obvious dike starting at Holdless Horror and running upwards from right to left. Straight down from the end of the dike is the downward pointing flake and the first belay.

Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes or continue up exposed 3rd and 4th class to the top of the dome (some may want a belay for the first portion of this). If you rappel, you must down climb the initial 4th class pitch, because the rappel from the top of the 2nd pitch to the ground is 230 feet.

Protection

Standard trad rack including nuts and small cams to 2 inches. Long runners for the somewhat wandering 2nd pitch and the start of the 3rd pitch.

Photos

Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
 
I avoid R-rated climbs and would have steered clear of this one, had I seen the rating and comments here. It was definitely a bit run out in sections and I took extra care when placing pro, but I felt that it protected well and was safe. I was able to find good stances wherever I needed them. The interesting mix of slab, features, and cracks was great for a climb at this grade and I would recommend it to anyone who is fairly confident at the 5.8 level. Sep 11, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
So I was thinking about Jeff's comment in the context of the routes that Todd listed as standard Meadows 'R' and the one that jumped out at me was South Crack. The reason being is that I would certainly agree that South Crack is 'R' (and I think this is generally the consensus) but the 'R' rated portion of SC is certainly not at the grade of the climb...IIRC, the crack was 5.8 ish and the runout was 5.4 ish? Anyway, I guess my opinion is that the 'R' rating is pretty subjective unless you are at the Gunks where things only get a safety grade if the runout is at grade. For most other places though, I think the rule that I use is that I will lean more towards an 'R' rating the longer the runout and the closer the runout climbing is to the actual grade of the climb. For Isostacy, the runout climbing is say, 5.6-5.7, so Jeff is probably spot on that this thing is baby 'R' ;) Jun 2, 2015
I agree with you both, although, 5.8R would mean you are climbing 5.8 moves while being run out. The cruxes of this route are well protected so not actually R by the standard definition. None the less there are several runouts that should be noted in the rating. An R- seems to be appropriate.

Regardless, this is my favorite route on the wall. Jul 5, 2014
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.8 PG13
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.8 PG13
Agreed, that spot was the one place where I thought that the climbing was fairly sustained and a fall could mess you up.

I guess when I think of Tuolumne 5.8R, routes like South Crack, Great Pumpkin, and Magical Mystery Tour come to mind, which all have huge runouts compared to Isostacy. I was prepared for climbing like that and was relieved to find that pitch 2 actually protects much better than can be seen from the ground.

All in all I think it's a fun route that deserves more traffic than it seems to get. If you're pretty solid at the grade, go get on it. Sep 10, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
 
J. Albers   Colorado
 
I hear what you are saying Todd, that is, compared to many other R-rated Meadows routes, Isostacy is rather tame. Still, just because a route is tame compared to other R-rated routes doesn't mean that the route doesn't have dangerous fall potential deserving of a grade note.

With regards to the second pitch of Isostacy, I think that if you fell while climbing up and left on the downward pointing flake, you would get pretty badly hurt because of the very slabby nature of the landing. Combined with the fact that you actually need to do a few moves in this section (albeit on mostly positive knobs), I thought that it was prudent to warn people. I guess I simply erred on the side of caution when entering it in the database so that folks would know that it is possible to get hurt if you fall in certain sections. But you're right, this route ain't 'R' in the same way that the Dike Route over on Pywiak is. Sep 9, 2013
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
  5.8 PG13
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
  5.8 PG13
Although there is a little bit of spice on this route, it is not really runout by Tuolumne standards. Probably should warrant an R-, in supertopo terms. (Interesting to note, in the supertopo guidebook it is only listed as 5.8R on the topo itself. In the index and the text of the book the rating does not have an R.) Sep 9, 2013