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Routes in La Surgencia Main Wall

El Corredor de los Muertos S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Evasion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sayonara Baby S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 410 total · 4/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 28, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

Climb jugs that just seem to get smaller the higher you get, though they really don't, to a couple of moves on pinches at the end of which the crux is encountered. You are already about 60 feet up and feeling the pump as the wall is 45 degrees or steeper. Once through the crux continue on climbing till the angle lessens and try to rest as soon as possible, this is not really possible till you are almost at the first anchor point and nearly 100 feet up. Rest well, they say it is the same grade to here as it is to the top, but bailing at this point is pretty lame with another 50 feet of 60 degree overhanging jug hauling ahead of you. The upper roof is probably 5.12c or so alone and you will pass another anchor before you get to the top anchor.

Location

There is a small cave/depression on the left side of the wall at the base. There are two routes starting just to the right of the depression. Limit No (5.13b/c) starts on the true pillar on the left and El Corredor de los Muertos starts on the next large tuffa to the right.

Protection

Bolts and bolted anchors.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
The 3 anchors on this route are for a 60m, 70m and 80m rope respectively. Stop and re-thread as needed when lowering, probably doing so twice if you have a 60m. Oct 30, 2009

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