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Routes in Mt. Superior / Monte Cristo

Cottonwood Traverse, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
South Ridge T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 25000 ft, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,563 total, 66/month
Shared By: notmyname on Sep 27, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

This is a lot of fun!

The climb starts on the S. Ridge of Superior. Start at the lowest point on the ridge at the most open spot to avoid bushwacking. 3,000' 5.6 (easier or harder depending on how many boulder problems you decide to do)

Cross over to Monte Cristo easily. Drop down off Monte Cristo (be careful, this is the crux although it's easy 4th)

Now it's up n' down and up again for a long long time until you clamber up Dromedary Peak (don't cheat stay on the ridge).

A heatbreaking descent down, and not as bad as it looks back up to Sunrise (O'Sullivan) Peak.

Down and up again to the summit of the Twins.

From here there are options:
-Head down into Broads Fork. Take the ridge or backtrack to the saddle to Sunrise. The slabs straight down are fun, but can be deadly.
-Keep on Truckin to Storm Mtn and go down Deaf Smith or Furgison Cyn. Way more fun and scenic!
-Try and stay on the ridge of LCC the whole way down (epic) from the Twins

From Alta to the Twin it's about 4-6 miles of ridge climbing

Location

The ridge the separates LCC and BCC starting in Alta.

Protection

if you need gear for this, you will need sleeping bags too since you'll be spending the night.
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I started by doing the Lisa Falls Direct up to the summit of the West Twin and went from there. Having done S Ridge a dozen times it was fun to do something else that also ended up being high quality, and ascending the west ridge of Sunrise and Monte Cristo seemed to be the way to do it. I descended the standard trail for Superior, Lisa Falls to Alta Lodge in 12 hrs and I'm pretty out of shape.

This is an iconic Wasatch chossaneering outing, in my opinion, that should be in the same category (more or less) as S Ridge, W Slabs, N Ridge of Pfeiff, Kamp's etc. Finally did this after 5+ years of climbing and mountaineering in these canyons and damn if I don't know what took me so long to get to it. Sep 18, 2017
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
  Easy 5th
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
  Easy 5th
I would recommend going from west to east, since the best scrambling was on the west side of dromedary and monte cristo, and its more fun/easier to ascend rather than down climb these portions. encountered a few sections of low 5th class but could be avoided if desired by deviating a little bit off the ridge. Jul 12, 2015
morris  
Not a bad descent down lisa falls from the col before the twins. Some routefinding, but not bad. Sep 23, 2014
An alternative which I haven't heard mention is SL to Alta. Start at Deaf Smith to Twin then the ridge to Superior and down to Alta. Took about 12 hrs as I recall. One of my favorite hikes ever.
Doubt I'll ever be in shape to do it again as it was the 70's. You seldom saw anyone on the climbs back then. Aug 25, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
I counted 14 Summits, and unique ridge line high points on this thing yesterday. A fantastic way to spend a day in the mountains! Jun 17, 2013
OldManRiver
Cottonwood Heights, UT
OldManRiver   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Curious how many splitboarders/groups have done this in spring (snow) conditions. Not really sure if this is a dumb question or a thing splitters haven't really thought of. Apr 28, 2013
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  4th
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  4th
The WURL is on my list. So is doing this ridge as a 2-3 day winter ascent via the valley. What a great ridge run in summer, eh?! More like III in summer if you're reasonably fit for mountaineering, though I could see it being IV for others. Mostly cl. 2-3, with one cl. 4 crux near Monte Cristo. Dec 24, 2010
the complete 'horseshoe or WURL' in 17:48
nikberry.blogspot.com/2009/… Oct 2, 2009
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
Definitely classic- the section just after Monte Cristo is wild and the traverse above the LCC north side chutes is amazing- above some of the most rugged area in the Wasatch. Reverse the route (minus the SE Sup Ridge) and continue on around the LCC watershed (Flagstaff> Wolverine> Devil's Castle> Bullion Divide> Pfeif> Beatout> Lone Peak) and you have the WURL - perhaps the premier Wasatch ridge run. Occasionally contemplated, rarely completed. (Kudos Jared). Sep 30, 2009
notmyname
Sandy, UT
 
notmyname   Sandy, UT
 
Sounds like a good winter tour James! That timp traverse sounds pretty fun too - I'll have to try it. Sep 29, 2009
Jim Dockery used to call this "The Ridge Run" and I know it was once quite popular...often done in winter. Franziska and I once joined two other friends and did it in January from the entire SE Ridge of Superior past Dromedary and over into the Salt Lake Valley with one bivouac enroute mid ridge. Another similar traverse is the 13 mile (it felt long!) complete traverse of Timp starting with the North Face of the North Peak out of AF and descending down into Provo Canyon. Sep 28, 2009