Rock and Brew
Trad, 100 ft,
Avg: 2.1 from 8
FA: Dick Williams, Dave Loeks, 1973
> c. Frog's Head - the…
Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Begin on the left side of the shallow roof 15 ft up, where a chest-height horizontal turns into a right-leaning seam. The first move off the ground is a bit tricky. Continue up left to a stance and gear. Aim up and left towards a left-facing flake/corner, then angle up and back right to a thin vertical black crack that is difficult to protect. At the top of the crack there is a pod for good gear, though you will be in ground-fall range by then. Head up thin holds to easier climbing to the tree with rings. One rope here will get you back to the ground.
P2: Step right and continue past an overhang to the GT ledge.
P3: From the GT ledge, start behind and right of a pine tree that is 40' left of the big rappel tree. Look for a right-facing flakes, and a pine tree to wrangle.
Described by Seth
I sent my partner up pitch 3 of Rock & Brew by mistake yesterday. (We were trying to do pitch three of Morning After.) Dick says 5.8 R and I think he's right.
The starting moves up bulgy white rock would be nice except you have to fight with a pine tree to make progress. You don't really mind the tree, however, since it's the only source of pro. Then nice moves take you past the right-facing flakes with good pro.
Then you get to the real problem. You reach another pine tree and above you is a blank slab with with no pro leading to the top. The rap tree for Rusty Trifle is off to the right, but traversing over is also lacking in pro. My partner chose to traverse to the rap tree, risking a pendulum if he fell. His choice left me with the same pendulum risk as a second. Served me right.
If I'd been leading I probably would have put my cordalette around the top pine on Rock & Brew and bailed. The pitch was pretty decent up to that point, but i don't recommend it.
Look for a short right-facing corner just below the shallow roof, about 25 feet left of the Trusty Rifle
offwidth (aka Rusty Jam). A chest-high horizontal turns into a right-leaning seam/overlap here.
Standard gunks rack to a #2, small cams helpful.