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Routes in Dana's Arch Area

Another Man's Car T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Beat Box S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Brett Thompson and Scott Fuller Memorial Route, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crimson Eye , The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
DGS T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dana's Arch T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A3
Golden Road S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heaven's Gate T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Fun S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tempituous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wildest Dreams T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt Kerns, Greg Collum
Page Views: 2,009 total, 20/month
Shared By: Orion Watson on Sep 27, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

A three pitch sport climb left of Dana's Arch.

Pitch 1: 5.10 face and slab climbing.

Pitch 2: Climb the middle option of three routes leaving the belay following a bolted flake. follow the flake to a tough mantle leaving a corner. Airy face climbing leads to a tricky face move skirting a roof into the upper corner. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.11b

Pitch 3: An index classic. Out of this world knobs through very steep terrain highlight the last pitch. It's not over until the very end with a pumpy finish at the chains. 5.12a

Location

left of Dana's Arch and Right of Earwax Wall

Protection

bolts

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
I had a blast climbing this route. My one complaint is that the location first bolt on the 3rd pitch makes no sense to me. It's not near the holds, increases rope drag, and runs the rope back to the belay in such a way that it's directly underneath you when you're doing the hardest moves. It's probably not a big deal, but it felt super likely that I'd catch it/land on it if I fell off the crux right there. It would be easy to solve all of these problems by moving it a few feet to the right. Jul 16, 2017
michal
Everett WA
  5.11d
michal   Everett WA
  5.11d
The last pitch is one of the best pitches of granite I have ever been on. Brilliant sustained climbing up overhung knobs with 200+ feet of air behind you, a must do, as is p2 Jungle Fun. Much more challenging in the sun. May 12, 2016
kerwinl
 
kerwinl  
 
Worth climbing for the last pitch alone. Well protected, and fun the whole way. There is a very old bolt on P3 about 3/4 of the way up that may concern some people, but it is only about 4' above a nice shiney new bolt with a clean fall. Apr 4, 2016