Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Matt Kerns, Greg Collum
Page Views: 2,260 total · 20/month
Shared By: Orion Watson on Sep 27, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A three pitch sport climb left of Dana's Arch.

Pitch 1: 5.10 face and slab climbing.

Pitch 2: Climb the middle option of three routes leaving the belay following a bolted flake. follow the flake to a tough mantle leaving a corner. Airy face climbing leads to a tricky face move skirting a roof into the upper corner. Belay at a nice ledge. 5.11b

Pitch 3: An index classic. Out of this world knobs through very steep terrain highlight the last pitch. It's not over until the very end with a pumpy finish at the chains. 5.12a

Beat Box 5.11+/5.12-

Location

left of Dana's Arch and Right of Earwax Wall

Protection

bolts

Photos

kerwinl
 
kerwinl  
 
Worth climbing for the last pitch alone. Well protected, and fun the whole way. There is a very old bolt on P3 about 3/4 of the way up that may concern some people, but it is only about 4' above a nice shiney new bolt with a clean fall. Apr 4, 2016
michal
Everett WA
  5.11d
michal   Everett WA
  5.11d
The last pitch is one of the best pitches of granite I have ever been on. Brilliant sustained climbing up overhung knobs with 200+ feet of air behind you, a must do, as is p2 Jungle Fun. Much more challenging in the sun. May 12, 2016
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
I had a blast climbing this route. My one complaint is that the location first bolt on the 3rd pitch makes no sense to me. It's not near the holds, increases rope drag, and runs the rope back to the belay in such a way that it's directly underneath you when you're doing the hardest moves. It's probably not a big deal, but it felt super likely that I'd catch it/land on it if I fell off the crux right there. It would be easy to solve all of these problems by moving it a few feet to the right. Jul 16, 2017