Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Neat Rock

Pinnacle Toprope TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinnacle Toprope (South face) TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Lobster T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Standard Direct finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Standard Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sunny Butterflies T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V1 5 PG13
Tweedle Dee V5 6C
Tweedle Dum V3 6A
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,835 total, 18/month
Shared By: PKA on Sep 26, 2009
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1 5.7 Start in the obvious corner and climb up to the black patch of rock and belay from bolted anchor.
P2 5.7 Follow the crack/corner up and left to bolted anchor near a small tree on a big ledge.
P3 5.9 From the ledge head left to the corner, climb up and over the roof (fun move/crux) to easier ground and the top of the cliff. Belay from near the tree at the top of the crag.


Location

The route starts about 20 yards from the parking area.

Walk off to the east down the sloping ramps.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot
Eli B.
 
Eli B.  
 
Fun climb. Nice ledges and bolted anchors for the first two pitches. The roof pull at the end is definitely stout but very fun. Highly recommended. Apr 10, 2016
Climbed this route over the winter but decided to do the Direct Finish. The rock quality and exposure through this finish were great! Highly recommended. May 24, 2013
Pfeifer  
Goes in two pitches pretty easy, one to the big ledge with the tree and than a short one to the top. Apr 8, 2013
Kurt Prond
Bozeman, MT
  5.10
Kurt Prond   Bozeman, MT
  5.10
You've got to take Montana ratings with a grain of salt. Back in the day, when these routes were put up, 5.10 was the hardest. So 5.9 was just one grade below, which still meant pretty hard. I guess Montanans are still a little behind the times, which may or may not be good. Anywhere else, the last pitch of this route would be called solid 5.10, maybe even 10+. There aren't very many 5.9's that pull a decent sized roof with almost nothing for feet at other destinations, even if it is bomber hand jams. A really fun route! May 7, 2011
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
  5.9+
The roof pull is stout put takes great pro so it's not to bad. Mar 24, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
 
One of the few routes you can do in the Bozeman area during a sunny winter day. Great fingers, lie backs with a more stout final sequence. Jun 28, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.9
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.9
Wasn't this called Pigeon Shit Express or Birdshit Express or some such? Sep 30, 2009