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Routes in Sabres of Paradise

Alex Patterson V5 6C
DIRT is a Four Letter Word V6- 7A
Fluffy Little Clouds V2 5+
Jack of Swords V8-9 7B+
Orb Short V4 6B
Orb, The V7 7A+
Problem A V1 5
Problem B V6 7A
Problem C V4 6B
Problem D V2 5+
Problem E V0 4
Problem F V1 5
Sabersonic V7 7A+
Sabres of Paradise V7 7A+
Stroking the Walrus V7-8 7B
Supersonic V8 7B
Youth V0 4
Type: Boulder, 35 ft
FA: Peter Croft and Mick Ryan
Page Views: 677 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tim Steele on Sep 26, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Read the BLM Happy Boulders page before you visit Details

Description

My vote for best traverse at the Happies. Very diverse. Start on the chalkstone and head left, exiting at the far left of the wall before the crack/alcove.

The beginning offers steep gym-like moves, while the end sports a pumpy crux going through a scoop feature. This is a popular after work training route for a lot of Bish locals. Feels more 5.13- than V7. Climbable in the summer in the evenings, though you should probably be climbing somewhere else...

Location

West rim; Trail heads up to the rim near the Totty Boulder.

Protection

pad

Photos

Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
 
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
 
Well after fighting to figure out how to get through the crux moves I finally figured out the best way to charge through this monster traverse. Not sure if there was a specific way to do this but this is what worked for me. youtube.com/watch?v=5XGjqeJ… Apr 8, 2016
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  V7
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  V7
A grade of 5.13a is more appropriate. Sep 1, 2013

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