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Routes in Black Rock Towers

East Tower - Fluttering Butterflies T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A2
Ron's Tower - Playing the Flute T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Ron's Tower - Standard Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Type: Trad, Aid, 160 ft
FA: Steve Anderton, Mike Colacino, Bill Duncan
Page Views: 796 total, 8/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

FA on Thanksgiving Day, 1996. Climb up to the top of the bedding seam and a nice ledge. 5.8 Continue up the crack (5.9) until it turns into a thin hands/finger crack (5.9) and becomes vertical. Continue up to the chimney and the summit. This will likely go free at 5.11 or a more difficult rating. I think the FA party might have had a wee hangover.

Avoid the loose rocks immediately to the right of the base of this route. The middle tower looks inviting, but a thorough recon did not yield any routes sans a bolt ladder.

Location

Ron's Tower is the westernmost or right-hand tower. The FA route ascends the crack on the south side (back side) of the tower.

Protection

The standard stuff.

Photos

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Colter
  5.10 C1
Colter  
  5.10 C1
REAAAAAAAL soft down low then great! I thought it was 5.10 climbing the whole way but I had been eating a few boomers.... so who knows. I did pull on one small piece of gear near the top when I was exhausted and having trouble getting feet on a sandy ramp, other than that I say it goes free and clean at .10+

Rapped off the other side with one 60m rope! 2 rapps. anchor 1/4 way down. that was a relief cuz we weren't sure. Nov 30, 2012