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Routes in Hueco Wall

Bonzai Biker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finders Keepers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lichen Monster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Losers Weepers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Made in the Shade S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moss Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nature S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nuture S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prodigal Son S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Devil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roadrash S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scar Tissue S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sudden Impact S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wipeout S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: LA 2001
Page Views: 697 total, 7/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Sep 24, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Awkward, reachy and tricky start. Clip first bolt, then perhaps traverse a couple feet to the right, fight for decent feet under the shallow overhang, then toss up to a thin vertical flake. Step back and clip second bolt (sequential and pumpy!) and pull up past the second small roof. Might be inviting to clip the bolt on Wipeout en route to the second bolt on this route, and this would be a safer option than whipping off whilst trying and failing to clip the second bolt. Fairly straightforward pocket climbing leads to the top.

Employ a neat variety of sport climbing techniques: undercling, layback, etc. Much steeper than it looks (they all are!).

Location

Right of Sudden Impact. The third route to the right of the chimney break in the Hueco Wall. Located at the shallow prow near the middle of the wall, where the wall transitions from North facing to Northwest facing. Rappel route. Most of the route catches late afternoon/evening sun, with inviting shade just to the left where the wall faces more due North.

Protection

6 lead bolts to a pair of open cold shuts.

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