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Wondertwins
5.10,
Trad, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 98
votes
FA: Jamie Wenger, John Rich, Michael Pruden, Jeff Wenger
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Trout Creek
> Main Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries
Details
2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.
SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.
blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… blm.gov/or/districts/prinev… ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND
Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.
Description
Twin cracks about 3-4 inches apart make for interesting jamming for most of the route. An obvious undercling roof at the top provides the standard exciting Trout Creek finish.
As of 9/27/19, there's a new extension that climbs up and right from the chains. Currently it doesn't have an anchor on top, but you can build one out of two (or three) #3s. Bring a selection of tips gear and RPs (tricams could be useful) plus a #1 to protect enjoyable, bouldery movement on jugs and gas pockets up perfect rock to the rim. The best finish ends on the arete.
Location
Wondertwins is located two lines left of Fingerlings. Look for the tight twin cracks and the distinctive roof finish. See Fun Soup's photo for more info. (WT is the twin cracks below the hexagonal roof on the left side of the picture)
Protection
Doubles of BD 0.4 to 3 with an extra 3+ sized piece.
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Bend