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Routes in (e) Right of the Roof

Atlas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Automatic Static S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Grooverider 2010 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ground Zero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
La Bella Donna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Natural Selection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Salubrious S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Survival of the Fittest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sweet Surrender S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2006
Page Views: 2,230 total, 22/month
Shared By: Muff on Sep 20, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Great long route.

Location

Left of Natural Selection (5.12c), but shares the first bolt with that route.

Protection

13 bolts, ring anchors

Photos

B-Dubs
 
B-Dubs  
 
First time on this route today the upper crux must have seen some key holds break for it to be 12.b.... only has a miserable sloper and a low crimp, which for me were just too low to reach anything. However I believe there is potential to dyno from the good holds before the sloper and crimp to the jug above the crux. If it wasn't for the upper crux this route would be stellar. Mar 24, 2017
The crux (upper hard move over a bulge) apparently received more breakage recently and the difficulty is quite a bit harder now. It's very out of character with the rest of the route and a bit of a shoulder wrecker. The right hand that was, I believe, a mini brick shaped pinch is gone. What remains is a small low crimp and that's it, other than that miserable sloper out there for the left hand. Dec 8, 2016
Chrisopher R.
Chatsworth, Ca
 
Chrisopher R.   Chatsworth, Ca
 
I'm 5'6" maybe 5'7" in my approach shoes, and the final crux did not feel very reachy despite what breakage may have happened. With a heal hook and a funky step through I was good to go. Stellar route.
Nov 24, 2015
James Weiss 1
Pasadena, California
 
James Weiss 1   Pasadena, California
 
One of my favorite routes at the Quarry. Highly recommend. Sep 30, 2014
John Ericson   USA
Like many quarry climbs, this route has several no hands rests, which makes pump management much easier than one might believe from reading the guidebook description. The upper crux felt V3 to me. Jun 8, 2014
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.12b
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.12b
very top section (routes old crux) is definitely harder compared to when I got the red point on it. Someone broke up loose holds up top making the crux harder and maybe height dependent. When I made the move on TR I was almost completely horizontal and doing a reachy move to past the crux... Oct 6, 2013
Greg Parker
Cardiff, CA
  5.12b
Greg Parker   Cardiff, CA  
  5.12b
Agreed. 12b. Feb 16, 2013
Choncho  
ACs grade assessment is accurate. Feb 4, 2013