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Routes in (04) Showdown Wall

Finger Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frigidaire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gunslinger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Precious S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
SideKick S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 2 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Velcro Bootie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Carolyn Parker & John Kear, 2004. Left line: Bryan Pletta before 2004
Page Views: 1,015 total, 10/month
Shared By: J J on Sep 20, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Fun combo of face climbing, pressure moves and a few finger locks. Pro is good with plenty of options for cams and nuts. Majority of the climbing is 5.7ish sans the crux which is the last move to the chains.

Location

About 30' left of the 5.7 unnamed gear crack at the left of Showdown wall. There is a head high detached flake at the base.

Protection

Small stuff. Camalot's .75 and lower. Used a 0 and 1 TCU. Set of nuts. 6-8 quickdraws. 60cm slings optional. 2 Bolts with chains at the top.

Photos

J J
Edgewood, NM
J J   Edgewood, NM
Yea I have no rating skills, I had a hard time finding something at the end where I felt the crux was, but I tend to miss holds (Im the best 5.11 5.9 climber). The two people after me, who were somewhat novice, cruised the top. Mar 3, 2011
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.6
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.6
Carolyn Parker and I cleaned this line but the anchor was already there. The original line climbs a little left of the easy corner and is a bit harder. The FA of the left line was by Brian Paletta before 2004, Carolyn and I clean the easier right line in 04' Nov 21, 2010