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Routes in China Wall

Around the World S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bassoon , The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bejing S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bio-Fest S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Blackout S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Blank Out S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bolt Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chinese Connection S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Coast to Coast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crimpfest S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Dihedral Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dwarf's dilema T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
First Blood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gang of Four S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Minnowmaker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Moratorium S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Oboe S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Organ Grinder S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Praise the Lowered S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Secret Sharer S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Slugfest S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sportfest S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Super Tweak S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Train-Fest S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trench Warfare S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Tweak S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Unknown 5.11a?? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Viable Option S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Vulcan Crawl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 122 total · 1/month
Shared By: mattjbudd on Sep 20, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Fun, short, overhanging climb that leaves you with a slight pump. The crux is trying to figure out how to clip the 4th bolt (it isn't very intuitive, and you don't need to use the small sloper/crimp).

Location

This is the climb across from Bolt Ladder. It is the overhanging face just left of the arete.

Protection

4 bolts to 2 chains

Photos

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scottso
St. George, Utah
scottso   St. George, Utah
Climb the arete and hang a double draw on the 4th bolt so you can clip it from down below. Then climb face and you have your 11a. Jul 2, 2012
DCrane
Taylorsville, Utah
  5.10d
DCrane   Taylorsville, Utah
  5.10d
If you're climbing straight up the face I could see how this would be 5.11, the beta I had used the very edge of the arete and seemed easier. Perhaps this is where the variation between 10d and 11b comes in Jun 17, 2012
benjaminleaton Eaton
Sandy, UT
  5.10c
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
  5.10c
I was surprised to see that MP has this listed as a 5.11a. The book says that it is a 5.10d/5.11b. The way that I climb it, I would give it a 5.10c. I could see the route breaching the 5.11 ratings if you don't use the arete. Getting up to the fourth bolt and the chains, without using the arete, is pretty dicey and small. Overall, this is a great warmup route. I wish it were longer. I guess you can continue to the right and climb the slap to the top of that rock. Mar 29, 2012

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