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Routes in Drone Wall

Beeleave S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bushy Tailed Wood Rat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Finger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drone, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prestidigitator S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Rain Delay S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rattler, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rubber Boa, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Snaked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stinger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tres Hermanos S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Unknown 5.11d S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
short, shitty and sharp S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 39 ft
FA: Doug Stout and Darrell Hodges
Page Views: 755 total · 7/month
Shared By: darrell hodges on Sep 19, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Here's a tip: if something looks like a huge mound of poo, that's not a hold.

Start under a roof, the first bolt is hard to see from the ground.
Pull through big positive holds with good feet and then ask yourself "what IS that rock?Petrified wood?"
Cruise up the slab and stop to wonder "why didn't FA comfortize some of those holds?" You can say this aloud if you want.

Say hello to some hornets. Don't worry- they're not aggressive. Unless you do something stupid like smack at them with a hat.

Now you're at the overhanging part.
There is a huge scary looking skull face on the rock face. Reach up into the mouth and grab the lower incisor.
Pull on that tooth until you can plunge your hand through an eye socket to find good holds in a sinus cavity.
Next you'll be lamenting the fact that it ended too soon.

Location

20 feet to the right of Bushy Tailed Wood Rat, up the slope.
Look up and you will see a big face with two eye sockets big enough to stick your whole head in and a creepy leering upside down grin. The climb goes right through the face.

Protection

5 bolts to anchor

Photos

vanman798
5.8
vanman798  
5.8
I feel like this route gets overlooked, and as such none of the holds are polished yet. It has a little roof like move down low, which gives it it's rating, but other than than move it's very basic climb (which if your old like me, you will appreciate). Aug 25, 2018

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