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Routes in Wild Horses Wall

Devil Wears Spurs, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gored By Inosine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hip Boot Romance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In Todd We Trust S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jackalope & Boomslang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Limestone Cowboy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Posse On My Tail S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pronghorn Love S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pronghorn Tramp S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prospect, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Star Spangled Rodeo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two Kinds of Justice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown 5.10a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wild Horses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steve Scott
Page Views: 150 total, 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 19, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Hip Boot Romance climbs a nice slab of jugs after a steep, difficult start. This line is a bit unusual for The Iris, with more crimping than pocket pulling, making it a nice change of pace. This is probably not the best choice for a warmup, featuring a brief, in-your-face boulder problem to a trivial finish.

Good holds lead past the undercut start and onto the face. Shouldery, devious moves snake back & forth across the bolt line. The pump builds until a sinker jug rail is reached. From here, easier moves lead to the anchor.

Location

Immediately right of "Limestone Cowboy" on the Wild Horses Wall. This is also the 2nd bolted route right of an overhanging, left-leaning dihedral bolted with gray Fixe hangers.

Protection

Bolts, 2 Bolt Anchor. Stick clip is highly recommened for the first bolt.
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
Steve Scott and I (john tuttle) put up this route. We always reported the party that did it, but either Piana or Lightner always just listed one person so only Steve got listed in the guides as doing all of the routes we did together, whether he or I led them first. So it goes.

Piana was insulted when he heard the name (apparently the reference struck a little close to home lol) and so dissed it in the guide. Its fun climbing, probably 2 stars for Wild Iris that has so many brilliant sport climbs. Sep 11, 2017