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Routes in The Moonstone

36 Views of Lone Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Across the Globe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blue Moon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blue-Eyed Sandbagger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feldspar Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flake Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Floating World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lunar Land T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moonscape T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solstice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stargazer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweetwater Moose T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Wind Walker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
World is Flat, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: NOLS people, 1970s(?)
Page Views: 497 total · 4/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Sep 17, 2009
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: Sticky situation Details


Do the first pitch of the Flake Route. From the ledge, proceed up a thin seam (RPs helpful),which is the crux, to the beginning of a long crack system that goes out to the right. The original route follows this crack out to a weird directional belay about a rope length out. Then up slab to top.

Last year, Ed DeLong, Aaron Steele and I put up a direct finish to this second pitch. Move right on the crack a little ways above the seam crux, then follow bolts up a shallow trough to a Fixx bolted rappel anchor, where the angle is walkable. We put in a rappel anchor out right of the first belay ledge as well, so you can rappel the route.


Do the first pitch of the Flake Route, the long, straight flake system on the right side of the dome. At the first belay ledge, go up and right to a thin seam, hence fairly straight up to anchor at top. Original route follows the crack system at the end of the seam way out and right. The second belay out there is a bit manky though, in my opinion. Rappel the direct finish route with 2-55m ropes. Fixx rappel anchors are in place.


Some cams to #2 camalot for the first pitch. Some thin stuff (RPs nice) for the crux seam.


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