Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Main Moonstone
|
36 Views of Lone Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Across the Globe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Blue Moon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Blue-Eyed Sandbagger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Central Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Egg Shells T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Feldspar Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Flake Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Floating World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Jambalaya T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Solstice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Stargazer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Wind Walker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
World is Flat, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 42.5294, -107.51336 |
| FA: | NOLS people, 1970s(?) |
| Page Views: | 1,379 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | bob branscomb on Sep 17, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Description
Do the first pitch of the Flake Route. From the ledge, proceed up a thin seam (RPs helpful),which is the crux, to the beginning of a long crack system that goes out to the right. The original route follows this crack out to a weird directional belay about a rope length out. Then up slab to top.
Last year, Ed DeLong, Aaron Steele and I put up a direct finish to this second pitch. Move right on the crack a little ways above the seam crux, then follow bolts up a shallow trough to a Fixx bolted rappel anchor, where the angle is walkable. We put in a rappel anchor out right of the first belay ledge as well, so you can rappel the route.
Location
Do the first pitch of the Flake Route, the long, straight flake system on the right side of the dome. At the first belay ledge, go up and right to a thin seam, hence fairly straight up to anchor at top. Original route follows the crack system at the end of the seam way out and right. The second belay out there is a bit manky though, in my opinion. Rappel the direct finish route with 2-55m ropes. Fixx rappel anchors are in place.
0 Comments