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Routes in Coffin Crack Crag

Blackwater T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Coffin Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rosholt? Rob Fillmore?
Page Views: 1,458 total · 13/month
Shared By: mtoensing on Sep 16, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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The crack is on the left side of the Coffin. The crack starts out on a lower angle crack to a steep, 3-4" crack in the dihedral. The crack slims down to hand jams at the roof. Pull the roof and enjoy the last few moves of crack to a ledge. I set a bomber hex directional for my second and climbed up another 10 feet up an easy slab to some anchors to belay. Use those anchors to rappel.


The route is located on the left side, or the right-facing dihedral, in the coffin. Scramble up ledges to access the climb from the river. Rappel off of rappel anchor on slab at the top of the climb to climber's right.


A couple of smaller pieces (green and red Camalot size) and multiples in hand pieces. One bigger piece, such as a #4 Camalot, is handy.


To find the wire tyrolean (not the rope one I don't know where that one is):

I climbed this on Sept 15, 09. The tyrolean to cross the river is a bit hard to spot. The only description that I can give is that you pass PCP Pinnacle and Rosie Lane, go about one mile until you see some boulders on the right,(they are small, about 4 feet high, and almost in the shoulder of the road). Once you see these boulders, start looking for the tyrolean on your left. It's a bit tricky to spot, so look closely. If you get to the big pullout on the right with a big boulder in it (looks good for bouldering) and a small shack, then you have gone about 200 yards too far.

Once you cross the tyrolean head upstream to the end of the meadow (1/4 mile?), Go a bit beyond the end of the meadow, then look up and slightly left to see Coffin Crack.

This climbing area offers some of the best crack climbing that I have seen in Taylor. It is definitely worth the four star rating. Go check it out. Sep 17, 2009
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
I think I know where you're talking about, can it also be reached by the trail next to the river? Pictures would definitely help. Sep 18, 2009
gunnison Colorado
TuFF GonG   gunnison Colorado
YDPL8S, yes, that is the only way I have accessed the Coffin Crack area. It's awesome to know about the tyrolean, I guess I'm gonna head out there tomorrow. I have done all three routes there in the past, and I remember the furthest right route (I think it's called Blackwater) being really good. Sep 19, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
My favorite route in Taylor Canyon. Oct 6, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Robert certainly has climbed it, but it was done before Robert showed up in Gunnison, at least I think so. I was always under the impression that Rosolt did the first ascent. Phil will know for sure. Nov 12, 2009
mtoensing   Boulder
Has anyone gotten on this climb recently? Last time I climbed it (Sept. of '10 I think) we pulled a rock out of the crack above the roof when pulling the rope. Of course we didn't have helmets on, and the softball-size rock landed right next to us. Anyways, we speculated that this route may be a little harder, because it is wider above the roof. Can't wait to climb in Taylor again! Jan 24, 2012

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