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Routes in Diagonals Wall

01) Hot German Babe S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
02) Nick The Wonder Dog S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
02.5) Bolts Over Troubled Water S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
03) Ramp Of Death T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
04) Barron Von Mischke S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
05) Bolt Bolt Boltin on Heaven's Door. S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
05.5) Bolters on the Storm S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
06) FBBMEAJMFFAMEUFA T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
06.5) Kletterfreude S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
07) Dirty bolts and their done dirt cheap S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
08) Supercalifragalisticexpi-BOLT-adocious S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
09) Boltway to Heaven S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
10) Cavedago - Gateway To Spormaggiorre T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
11) Packen Wir Es An!!!! S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
11.5 Purple Bolt, Purple Bolt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
12) Quantum Chaos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
13) Quantum Order T,S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,869 total · 27/month
Shared By: Dreez on Sep 14, 2009
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

SPORTY!!!!! but very very cool ramp. Stay on the ramp to be pure, don't wus out and go to side ledges and climb up.

This used to be a bit runout, but by popular demand I bolt-protected the cruxes. 8 bolts total. So maybe I should call it "Ramp Of Pain" now. I think this is one of the best 5.9's in the state.

This route reminds me a bit of Drilling Experience in Red Wing but a lot longer on the slab.

Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes. Tradition is to use web anchors and trad gear
if you really need to drytool. Bolts are for sport climbers. Let's save these climbs for YOUR kids. Thanks. Dreez

Location

Left hand side of Diag wall, about 50 feet from left edge in diehedral. Dripping water at start.

Protection

9 Bolts

If you want to climb the original spicy runout climb, then don't clip the 2nd last bolt by the drill hole. I use to protect the runout with 1 runner in the drill hole(the thicker the better) and/or 1 blue alien/Metolius cam

Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller

Photos

Shawn P. Tracy
  5.9+ R
Shawn P. Tracy  
  5.9+ R
Sorry Dreez, but this is a TRAD ROUTE that got retro-bolted on rappel without sussing out the best bolt placements adequately. What was once a safe trad lead is now a set-up, for aspiring 5.9 leaders, for a double ledge-hitting fall off the last bolt for approximately 25 feet if someone tries to sport climb it and fails (likely). Normally when bolts go in the route gets safer, however this one is a time bomb. Thanks for working on it, but please add one more bolt below the last bolt to protect the leg-breaking fall on 2 ledges and also scrub the face of the lichen and sand to provide quality smearing to make that last clip. If we're going to equip routes to promote climbing in SAndstone, why put in ones in this fashion which WILL lead to an evacuation and potential crag closure in time? Given the money and time it takes, please consider finishing the job (PS: this was a trad lead - if those bolts weren't glue-ins, I'd respectfully ask you to remove them). Apr 25, 2011
Eldon Krosch Jr.
  5.9+ X
Eldon Krosch Jr.  
  5.9+ X
Up to this point in my climbing experience I am basically a gym rat. I throw this out there not to tell my bio but to let you know this comment reflects my first outdoor sport climb attempt I have ever made and it was on this route. I have top roped outdoors a fair bit and done a ton of gym climbing over the years.

So anyway take the comments in that context if you wish.

I picked this route because I wanted to do a 5.9 rather than a 5.8 as my first sport climb which may have in hindsight been a mistake but it was a great learning experience.

This route technically is a pretty normal 5.9 except that is goes right to left at a 45 degree angle up the "ramp". However there are many clipping points where if you fall while clipping you are very likely to deck on ledges and one where you might get impaled on a pointy tree stump.

I bailed I believe after about the 5th clip because I didn't feel 100% confident I wouldn't fall on the next clip which would likely have meant a hard deck on a ledge after I had already gone over 3 such clips/ledges where if I fell while clipping I would have almost certainly decked on lower ledges.

After my climbing partner on-sighted this route I quickly finished it on top rope. Other than 1 foolish fall I went up the climb easily. So the technical grade and difficulty isn't bad but once again there are major ledge decking issues many times on this route if you were to fall while clipping.

Again I am new to sport leading but I wouldn't recommend this route to new sport leaders and if you do decide to risk this route. I don't think anyone could reasonably blame you if you felt it got too dicey and you bailed because the possible clipping falls are extremely dangerous.

The route is on the other hand extremely fun and if you can get past the big danger on the clips because you have no fear or you are that 100% confident in your ability to not fall on a 5.9 while clipping itÂ’s a great route. There may be some places to get a few cams in to lower your exposure in the lower ranges 1 inch and smaller.

If you do fall clipping I hope I don't read about you being hauled away in an ambulance with broken bones which is why I bailed on my lead attempt of this route. May 27, 2013
Kris Gorny

  5.9+
Kris Gorny    
  5.9+
Eldon and Shawn -- thanks for your comments and the warning. I will forward this to Mike and see if he can comment. May 28, 2013
KurtH
 
KurtH  
 
This relatively un-aesthetic climb (ie, ramp in a quarry) climbs really well and miraculously has some of the best movement for a sub 5.10 sport route in the state (I would argue at least).

As it stands now, the route is only heady in the fact that it traverses, and with the new bolts this is as safe as it will get. Hop on it and enjoy and a belayer you trust! Nov 13, 2015
Dreez
 
Dreez  
 
I put another bolt in for Eldon and gym friends. This route is no longer R, its a gym route. Oh well. May 25, 2016

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