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Another Wack and Dangle Job

5.12a, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
FA: FA:Pat Purcell FFA:Matt McCormick
New York > Adirondacks > B: Chapel Pond… > King Wall

Description

This amazing route lies in the massive left arching corner on the left end of the King Wall. Pat Purcell aided the route to the existing anchor all the while intending for it to be a full length route. The potential to extend this free climb out the rest of the arch is definitely there!

Scramble around left and back right across a scrappy ledge to reach the base of the left facing and overhanging corner. The start of the route is marked by a 2-bolt anchor which Purcell must have placed.

Stem up the initial corner into increasingly steep and pumpy climbing to reach the anchor. This route is truly unique for the Daks and should be destined to become a free classic at the crag!

Location

Starts by scrambling up the slabby boulder and then back right across the ledge to the base of the massive left arching corner. 60' right of Wall Ruler.

Protection

small to medium nuts and cams. The route is totally G rated!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt McCormick on Another Wack and Dangle Job
[Hide Photo] Matt McCormick on Another Wack and Dangle Job

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Super Route. If Kingdom Come is 4 stars this should get 10! I only did the first pitch of KC though. Jul 6, 2010
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
[Hide Comment] A stellar pitch on excellent rock; highly recommended. Aug 24, 2018