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Routes in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Bisector S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt Talk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bongo Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butter Side Down S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clone Call S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Demasiadas Cervezas S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eight Flake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Her Majesty's Secret Tranverse S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horton Here's a Tufa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mas Cerveza S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Prototype S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
ReKleiner, The S,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smitten Psychopath S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Socks On Chicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Star Belly Sneeches S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There's a Wocket in my Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing 1 Thing 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnatural S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yertle the Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 812 total · 7/month
Shared By: Aaron Merriam on Sep 14, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Begin on the starting jug of prototype, and move up and left onto a crimp and a 2 finger pocket. Make a technical move up to more crimps to pull the lip. Ten feet of 5.9 climbing and then a great sequence of small 2 finger pockets and dishes gets you to the anchors.

Location

This route is immediately left of Prototype

Protection

4 or 5 bolts with quickclips at the rap anchors.. Use the first bolt of Prototype to protect the start.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
For me, the move off the 2 finger and crimp moving past the second bolt seems tweaky for the grade. Sep 10, 2010

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