All Locations > Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 01: No Sweat

Mongo Fury

Name: Mongo Fury
Rating: 3.0

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13

Routes in 01: No Sweat

L › R R › L A › Z

	Byrd aka No Sweat Overhang, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mongo Fury T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Mongo Mantle, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	No Sweat T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	T-Bomb TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Welcome Wagon (Jax's Truck Stop) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA:	Barry Rugo and Arturo Reyes-Perez ca. 1980
Page Views:	1,135 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Burton Lindquist on Sep 14, 2009
Admins:	Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

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Description

Sweet and very fun 30 feet of climbing positive but intense vertical to overhanging arete (and crack just right of arete) up into rest and big horizontals then final steep exit crack and edges. Crux is at mid height moving off positive horizontal hand match to pull on small side pull above to get into large jugs/ledges and protruding flake rest.

Location

Next buttress back from and right of the "No Sweat" overhang route which is the first major climbable rock formation one comes to when walking up CCC trail from the East Bluff car park.

Protection

Good to excellent small to medium wires and cams. There is a good placement about every 3 feet on this making it quite safe to lead. It is just very strenuous to place the gear needed at crux because it's above your head and above the nice positive horizontal hand match.