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Routes in No Sweat

Byrd aka No Sweat Overhang, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mongo Fury T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Mongo Mantle, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Sweat T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
T-Bomb TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome Wagon (Jax's Truck Stop) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Barry Rugo and Arturo Reyes-Perez ca. 1980
Page Views: 929 total · 9/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Sep 14, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Sweet and very fun 30 feet of climbing positive but intense vertical to overhanging arete (and crack just right of arete) up into rest and big horizontals then final steep exit crack and edges. Crux is at mid height moving off positive horizontal hand match to pull on small side pull above to get into large jugs/ledges and protruding flake rest.

Location

Next buttress back from and right of the "No Sweat" overhang route which is the first major climbable rock formation one comes to when walking up CCC trail from the East Bluff car park.

Protection

Good to excellent small to medium wires and cams. There is a good placement about every 3 feet on this making it quite safe to lead. It is just very strenuous to place the gear needed at crux because it's above your head and above the nice positive horizontal hand match.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
For historical purposes only the first lead of this was by Barry Rugo and Arturo Reyes-Perez circa 1980 ( not 1970) Barry and Arturo were a great team , one was very bold and the other was very calculated. Pull down. Sep 23, 2017
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10a/b R
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10a/b R
Great little route! High potential for a ground fall if you were to fall going to the horizontal crack. Super fun regardless! Feb 18, 2017
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
What a great route! Why did I wait so long to get on this?

Classic Devils Lake in so many ways: packs a lot of thought into a short space, deciphering which of the edges above you are flat and which are slopers is key, and the actual line is not the most visible line. Amazingly varied, devious, and sustained. Jun 6, 2016
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
You are right on Nick. That nut placement in the crack notch thing low down is not a very deep placement and could be a potential blow-out placement if fallen on hard (quite possible because not much rope out) and I have on every occasion backed it up with a blue power cam placement just above. The crux pro you missed is a very similar placement to one just mentioned but involves an even smaller wired nut so the possibility of blowing this placement is even greater....
Adding the PG gear rating is a good idea now that I think more about it... Aug 20, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10b PG13
Tradiban  
  5.10b PG13
I didn't see the pro in the crux and was forced to run this out to the rest. The rest is very good and sporty with a damn big jug to hang on. The lower pro was hard to place, what looks like a good nut could turn out poor, best to place a micro cam just above it to back it up. Aug 20, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
 
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
 
Thanks Jay. I will post a few pictures as well soon. It is a very good lead I agree. The rock is really nice. Very good, hard, and satisfying climbing I think. I never knew this thing existed until you mentioned it a while back. I have been looking up at it ever since while walking by. I really like the 5.7/5.8ish thing around the corner to the left too. It is not named in the guidebook other then a number but it is well worth an onsight lead attempt I think.. Short as well but super fun and has nice textured rock plus just enough good gear placements. Sep 14, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I'm so glad you added this Burt. It's a really great lead that is often overlooked. Sep 14, 2009