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Routes in December Wall

A Long December T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arborvitae T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Caesar's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Climb of the Anonymous Coward (Var) S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crown Molding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Door Jam T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I Promise Not To Cam In Your Mouth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Life After James S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Little Caesar T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mnemonic Plague T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Moonstruck T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturne T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nosebleed T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ranklands of Perfidy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Tag T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Road Goes Ever On, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Seams Alright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short Takes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Telegraph Road S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Telegraph Road Goes Ever On (Variation), The S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Winter Dreams / Gene and George's Excellent Adventure T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 95 ft
FA: Bernard Gillett and Paul Bodnar, 2009
Page Views: 635 total, 6/month
Shared By: Bernard Gillett on Sep 13, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Little Caesar is a variation to the first pitch of Caesar's Crack. Start immediately left of the crack and climb into a left-facing corner; clip a couple bolts as you turn an obvious overhang on the right (5.10a). Continue up to a 3rd bolt at the base of a slab -- a small wire and/or cam can be placed between bolts 2 and 3, though these rely on the integrity of a large block that has a slight hollow ring to it.

Step left onto the slab and clip two more bolts (crux), then head up right to the big overhang on Caesar's Crack. Jam through (5.10a) and finish at the chains on the top of the first pitch of Caesar's Crack (95').

The slab portion of the route feels a bit contrived (it can be skipped by joining Caesar's Crack sooner, after clipping the 3rd bolt). The intent was to establish an independent pitch that fires through the big overhang left of Caesar's. I've tried top roping it, and it'll probably go (a few more bolts would be required). Seemed at least 5.12+ to me, maybe even a little harder. I'll add bolts if I ever succeed on TR.

Watch for poison ivy at the base. There was a healthy patch at the end of summer, 2009 (a wet summer).

Location

Begin just left of Caesar's Crack, below a left-facing dihedral leading to an overhang; look for bolts.

Rappel 95' from the chains at the top of Caesar's Crack (pitch 1).

Protection

A set of cams from fingers to fists (#0.4 - #3 Camalot) is sufficient. Add a set of wires for more options.

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