Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Beckey and Parrott, 1956
Page Views: 7,166 total · 53/month
Shared By: BenCooper on Sep 12, 2009 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

Begin from the top of the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord Tower. Follow a crack system to a large ledge with some small trees (pitch 1, 5.6). From the ledge, go right on easy terrain then straight up on some hollow and flaky sounding rock. The pitch ends right after what appears to be 10-15 feet of an unprotectable blank wall, but has huge huecos with great holds. (pitch 2, 5.7). From the belay head left up some crack systems (easily takes a #3 cam) then go up two 5.0 slabs and up a bear hug flake just below the summit (pitch 3, 5.6+-5.7ish).

Going right after or during the second pitch will put you on the Tunnel Route (also known as Cave Route on MP). So, stay left after the blank wall with huecos to stay on the North Face route.

This route can stay wet after a rain, and can be icy early and late season. But it's worth the beautiful rock found higher up the tower.

Descent
Descend off the two summit bolts going down the route, right below one of pitch 3's 5.0 slabs you'll see two more bolts, rappel off these to the bushy ledge of pitch one, and rappel from here to the base of the climb. Hike out the way you came.

Location

The route begins at the top of the notch between Concord Tower and Liberty Bell. Approach from the west side of WA Pass, via the Blue Lake Trail and climber's trail up the gully.

Protection

1 set of cams, 1 set of stoppers, and some slings to reduce drag. One 60-m rope is sufficient.

Photos