Type: Trad, 145 ft
FA: Brian Cabe & Mike Coe 19 July 2008
Page Views: 309 total · 3/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Sep 12, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details
Access Issue: Tidal Wave - is on BLM LAND - PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Details


Fun climbing up the chimney (5.3-ish) leads to the thin, steep face above. Thin climbing, poorly protected with dubious thin cams up the steep face. Take advantage of all potential gear placements. Thin cams seem to work in some shallow cracks.

Near the top, theres a shallow pod feature with a corner crack which accepts larger cams (whew).

Take care. This is a thin lead demanding a cool head and very honed gear placing skills. A fall from above the chimney could have dire consequences (especially if your gear pulls).

That said, the climbing is fun and the rock pretty good. Test all holds as this hasn't seen much if any traffic. Go lightly and be solid.


Located to the right of Tidal Wave. Starts in the chimney and continues up the steep face above the chimney to the summit of the Tidal Wave wall. Down lead to the anchor on Tidal Wave (take care!!) as there's no summit anchor.


Standard rack to include a double set of small cams (00 TCU or equivalent). No fixed gear and no summit anchor.