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Routes in White Dike Area

1976 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mystery 13 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Petit Piton T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
White Dike, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Scott Matz & Cale Farnham
Page Views: 55 total · 1/month
Shared By: Scott Matz on Sep 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED - Private Property Details

Description

Smearing, offwidth, handcrack, fingercrack, chimneying to a layback, this climb offers it all. Gear placements are tricky and some rock is loose.

P1 climbs the green, triangular-looking (left) dihedral up through two roofs, placements are solid in the crack (not on the face). Pull through a couple bulges with great hand and finger cracks, and set belay 110 feet up on an eagle ledge. I used the top of the buttress to rap my rope around for anchor.

P2 follows a ramp of hollow but solid flakes to the right then traverses left just under a face. Move left around the corner, and encounter another 30 feet of little roofs and ledges no harder than 5.9. This has great face and finger cracks on P2. Beware when climbing in this area, rockfall has potential.

Eds. Please do not climb here. This is on private property. The landowner has confirmed that they do not want anyone climbing here.

Location

This route is better seen heading downstream but lies acrossed the river 100 feet left of White Dike. On the arete feature of the river bend. Cross the river upsteam from the bend, climb the 4th class ledges up to the green dihedral. After P2, exit to climber's left through a notch to the 4th class gully to the west. Kinda tricky but a good sheep run.

Protection

Normal rack. Bring a lot of small, finger-size pieces, smaller size Hexes. Extras on #3 size. A #4 and #6 C4 were helpful, or a medium Bigbro. We used all 8 slings and a double sling for the 1st roof.

Photos

Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
 
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
 
I climbed it again with David, and proved to be a worth wild trad pitch. The rock is solid in most places. The rating sticks at 5.9-. Sep 17, 2010
Cale Farnham  
 
Wow, great line up pretty decent rock. Plan on cleaning both this and 1976 up for future climbing! Lovin' the BTC! Sep 17, 2009
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
 
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
 
Pitch 2 of this climb is not recomended but a spicy, scary lead on awesome granite, although some loose rock is present. There will be a rap station for this climb in the near future. Sep 14, 2009
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Looks like an interesting route. Was that you guys up there today? (Sept 11, '09). I stopped briefly and yelled up to you guys asking about the climb. Will have to have a go at it! Looked like a great line. Sep 11, 2009

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