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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 300 total · 3/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Sep 9, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Boulder up between two columns with no placements until you get to the obvious S-shaped crack above you. Small hands to full hands ends quickly at a roof. Shoot left along the shelf to the giant ledge and anchors. You can link to the second pitch of loose block but make sure you sling well or deal with bad drag.

Location

Start this climb about ten feet right of the arete for Loose Block Overhang.

Protection

Pro to 1.5" chains at top.

Photos

hemp22
  5.8
hemp22  
  5.8
This is the right hand variation of the first pitch of loose block overhang.

If you skip the chain anchor and link directly into the overhang on P2, it makes for a good longer pitch, and takes you to the actual Slapfest anchors (which are shared w/ P2 of loose block) Sep 11, 2009

More About Slow Drag (LBO variation)

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