Type: Boulder
FA: John Gill
Page Views: 3,028 total · 27/month
Shared By: Mav Mack on Sep 8, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

17 Opinions

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Long reaches are mandatory on this problem.


In the middle of the flat face and six feet left of sandpaper ledge are small edges that lead to a jug complex.


Crash pad.


misha zavalov
Boulder, Co.
misha zavalov   Boulder, Co.
It looks to me like Pat Ament is on Sandpaper Ledge (not Gill Direct) in this picture. Jan 19, 2010
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  V4 R
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  V4 R
The crux is pretty low, but it has some big moves high off the deck. And you are basically free soloing a 5.6 (give or take) once you top out the actual boulder problem. Bring some spotters & pads and get your head on straight for this one. Awesome problem. Apr 9, 2010
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
Did Gill do this problem or did a disciple of his? I asked Gill about this problem recently, and he said he didn't recall anything at Flagstaff in the Amphitheater that he did? Mar 19, 2015
Chip Phillips
Broomfield, CO
Chip Phillips   Broomfield, CO
Michael, Pat Ament gave Gill credit for the FA of this problem in 1969 during one of his limited visits to the mountain. I suspect that Pat showed him OHT and Gill added a direct variation without knowing that he was adding a Flag classic to hundreds of future boulderer's circuits.

Peace, my friend. Mar 27, 2015
Tyler Kempney
Boulder, CO
Tyler Kempney   Boulder, CO
I was excited to try this boulder problem, and unfortunately the left hand start hold broke off today. The hold is much smaller and no longer has a thumb catch. Feb 26, 2017