Avg: 3.4 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Jeep Gaskin, Joe Coates (1978)|
|Page Views:||1,628 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||themostdirect on Sep 8, 2009|
|Admins:||Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
DescriptionPitch 1: (5.10a) Start just right of the large offwidth corner, following a nice hand crack until you can step left into the steep weakness. Step up through fun pinches and flares and past an ancient bong to the beefy bolted ring anchors. (80')
Pitch 2: (5.10d) Here is the fun stuff. Leaving the belay, move up and right, passing under steep lichen covered flakes. Wander up the right side of these blocks and then back towards a clean face on left. Making some heady friction moves above your gear, get to a stance and clip the ancient rusty SMC bolt. Make another fun move and then run it out to the anchor bolts way up and right.
(Special note: "Selected Climbs of NC" calls this second pitch 90' which is WAY SHORT. The second pitch is actually more like 130 feet, which won't put you back to any anchor with one rope...)
It is possible to continue up for two more pitches of dirty eyebrow climbing at 5.9 and 5.7 and then walk off in the gully between the North Side and Hidden Wall.
LocationFrom where the trail exits the woods, look up and right for an off-width corner, Carboman's first pitch crack lies directly to the right. You can see the anchors up and left above the large corner.
ProtectionStandard single trad rack up to a BD #3, with nuts and a few tri-cams.
The bolt on the second pitch needs replaced.
Anchors have already been replaced on pitch two and are set for rappel but one rope won't get it done.... we had to lower off a single shiny new bolt in the middle of the blank face directly below.