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Routes in Graveside Matter Slab

Dementor's Kiss S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Faceplant S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ghost Rider S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lap Dance S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Mulato S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Pass Through S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspect Nargles S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Too Much Cock Not Enough Lycra S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ben Heaton
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: ZachBradford on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Steep Friction slab. The route is fairly well protected but you won't want to fall before clipping the second bolt or you just might deck.

(This route was mistakenly called "widowmaker" in the new guidebook" widowmaker is an R rated trad route that climbs several feet to the right. According to the route creator you should be unable to clip any bolts from the original line that is widowmaker.)

Location

Located just 10 feet right of Faceplant next to large tree.

Protection

Bolts to Rap anchors

Photos

ZachBradford  
 
After reading the posts on Utahclimbers.com it looks like its a case of mistake identity. This line is actually to the left of the original line of "widowmaker"

I have changed the name to the proper name of "Mulato".

Check out the Utahclimbers.com link above if you have questions.
It seems that it was checked out earlier and declared "kosher" by members of the original crew who put the line up.

Read the other post! Aug 5, 2010
Stevel
Cedar City, Utah
Stevel   Cedar City, Utah
This was already discussed once, long ago. Read Here: utahclimbers.com/phpBB3/vie…
Might as well read all 4 pages. Aug 4, 2010
ZachBradford  
 
I am all for respecting the vision of the first ascentionist but the route has been bolted for at least 4 years. When it was bolted that was the time to complain and pull the bolts, if they were going to be pulled. I think the route has now been established in the current community as a sport route. I think it would be a heart pumping trad route for anyone who is ready to give it a shot on gear. I say keep the bolts its not like the bolts are stopping any hard men from doing the route on gear.

All that would be achieved would be a route that would never get climbed at all because the current community is 95% sport climbers. It would be loss. The history was already lost when it was bolted 4 years ago and no one complained then. We only have so many routes in Cedar lets not lose one.

Ryan you are the current communities local Trad climber what do you think? (If you want to try it on gear to see how it goes I'm in.) Aug 1, 2010
ZachBradford  
 
Hey TP I'm almost positive this is Widow maker. You can place gear near the large pod down low. Then gear in slots at mid height. And a final piece can be placed on the vertical/bulge section before running it to the top.

It was Retro bolted by an unknown party a few years back. Aug 1, 2010
when did this get bolts? Oct 26, 2009