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Routes in Skyline South

15 Pieces of Flair T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Alice Springs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Angle of Discord S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Basic Goodness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Beautiful Freak T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crystal Caper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diptych T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Eli the Husky Dog T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Faux Buddhas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Geometric Distractions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Goodbye Babylon T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Guestworker S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Headline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hippy Bandana S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Wanna Be Your Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
KnifeHandChop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Loose and Dirty T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pedro S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
RRT T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Red Beard's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Trevor Bowman, Pat Kingsbury, Bryan Schmitz 8/17/09
Page Views: 906 total, 9/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Sep 7, 2009
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This spicy two pitch line parallels Slyline to its left on the south face of Skyline Buttress. It was done ground-up on-sight.
P1-Start the first pitch in a chossy, pink, right-facing dihedral capped by a small roof about 15' left of the first pitch of Slyline. Climb the corner with a good crack but suspect rock to the cruxy hand (or foot) traverse left 7' under the roof; easier climbing up small corners and blocks on good dark rock leads to the comfy belay ledge beneath the crux chimney pitch on Skyline. (5.10 80')
P2-Climb the 15' crack up to the belay bolts for the second pitch of Ithica Connection and launch up the blunt green rib which forms the left side of the Skyline Chimney. This is a strenuous and strange pitch up shallow flared cracks with cerebral climbing and sometimes tricky pro. The crux is climbing up the lower rib and wrapping around right toward the chimney into the twin upper crack-grooves. (5.11a 100')
Once around, you can make a big stem across the Skyline Chimney to rest in spots, but you have to leave the stem to enter the upper cracks. If you use the stem to move up the middle stem (instead of just as a rest) it makes it slightly easier; it would be a very proud and burly lead to do this without the stem at all! All three members of the FA party climbed using different methods, with the leader stemming just for rests and gear placement, and one follower stemming up the middle section, and the other following without stemming at all.

Location

South face of Skyline Buttress. P1 starts 15' left of P1 of Slyline. P2 follows thin cracks up the green rib left of the Skyline Chimney. Rap off Crystal Caper with 2 ropes or continue up Skyline to the top (several short fun steps up to 5.5)

Protection

Cams through #4 new BD, lots of small TCUs and C3s, RPs and small brass nuts, offset TCUS.
mtsambo
 
mtsambo  
 
Once this line gets cleaned it will be a much higher quality route. Apr 14, 2015