Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Huey
Page Views: 1,451 total · 13/month
Shared By: FCJohn on Sep 6, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

Easy climbing up the right facing flake on the right side of the ark, leads to a traverse on rusted iron color pockets up to a cool undercling. Blast up and over the roof here, making a hard move before the next bolt. Save some juice for 3 more bolts to the chains on thin pockets and crimps.

Location

Shares the start and the first 4 bolts as the Last Starfighter and Unsubstantiated Propaganda

Protection

13 Bolts to chains. Although the moves were easy 10-, it was comforting to have a longer runner to clip an extra bolt to protect the traverse.

Photos

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
I thought the crux clip was... the crux! I think taller people should have an easier time of it. Aug 12, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.12b
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.12b
I definitely felt like the crux was a move from a tiny crimp up to a pinch right after you come out around the roof. Lovely climb, though, and unlike many others actually has a clipping stance for the anchors up in the churt. Sep 15, 2012
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.12-
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.12-
I didn't feel like this route was any harder than the rest. And for sure not a cool or as clean of a line as LSF. But still worth doing if you climb the grade. Jul 15, 2013
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Great route, one of the best of the grade in the Bighorns Aug 14, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.12b
Franck Vee  
  5.12b
Similar to UP on the left, only with a harder boulder problem off the bulge which means the (imo similarly hard) thin section above feels harder. Jul 12, 2018