Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Huey
Page Views: 3,936 total · 34/month
Shared By: FCJohn on Sep 6, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

The setting, steepness, and variety of climbing styles on this route put it among the top three 11s at Ten Sleep. A bouldery crux between bolts 3 & 4, leads to another 10 bolts of brilliant climbing. Keep your eyes open for the cool mono pockets and fossils on this route up high.

Location

The first route to the right of the large crack that splits the back side of the arc

Protection

13 Bolts to bolted anchor
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.11d
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.11d
This line is the most striking line on the Ark, it really is a thing of beauty. Brilliant climbing, do this route! Aug 1, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
excellent route. The most memorable send for me in my trip to ten sleep. Jul 27, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.11d
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.11d
There's a point on this route where I clipped from a mono, stared directly at a fossil the size of my forearm right at eye level, then reached up and grabbed another mono.

Stellar movement, stellar rock, stellar position. DO IT!

And do July Jihad while you're up there! Sep 15, 2012
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Yup, definitely on the short list for best 11s out here! Fantastic climbing with no distinct crux (maybe the monos, but the feet are so good there). Sustained from about bolts 4-9... hang on! Sep 17, 2012
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
 
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
 
5 star. The bee's knees! Jul 15, 2013
Alex Gaskin
Athens, Georgia
Alex Gaskin   Athens, Georgia
So the mono's seemed out of place to me. I mean two perfect, sinker mono's in a row? My senses were telling me its too good to be true. With that skepticism and the fact that the route is named "Joy in Heresy" (the heresy being the man made holds and the joy the way it climbs) I began to wonder why this gets five stars, but Hebiggum got "stripped of its starts" because a nasty rumor that it was fabricated. Can someone explain? Sep 3, 2013
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
 
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
 
One of my favorite at Ten Sleep. Good route! Jul 6, 2015
Franck Vee
  5.11c
Franck Vee  
  5.11c
Amazingly good line. Long, relatively even with imo 2 cruxy section - the mono section & the last bit up top. However, it felt somewhat easier than other 11d I did in TS (Hanoi Hilton, Zombie Leprechaun, Captain Insano...) so I would call it 11c? There are shakes & decent rests, more than the other mentioned and I didn't think the hardest move on Joy was as hard as the hardest on any of these others.... Maybe just had a good day... Jul 12, 2018