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Routes in Polemonium Peak

Traverse from Mt Sill T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
V-Notch Couloir T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI3
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Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,160 total · 56/month
Shared By: BradLipovsky on Sep 6, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Best in the Fall when the snow has turned to remnant ice. Start early to avoid rockfall from the freeze-thaw cycle. The crux is getting over the bergschrund.

Protection

Alpine trad rack plus ice screws.
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  Easy 5th WI3
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  Easy 5th WI3
Climbed this in mostly ice conditions. Great long route sustained at 50-60 degrees. Bergshrund still had a bridge. Lightning storms chased us away from the traverse over Polemonium and down U-Notch, so we hustled over to Sill and descended down familiar territory. Was able to use the rock along the left side for many of the belay anchors, but it took some ingenuity and stance planning. 6 60m rope stretching pitches. Oct 17, 2009
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
the last couple hundred vertical feet on the summit rock was stout old-school 4th Class. (more like 5.7) I think it was Cameron Burns book and story that stated and supported how difficult the top was. Im glad we had a 1/4 rack and rope. 5-star peak. Oct 28, 2010
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  Easy 5th AI2
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  Easy 5th AI2
Just another classic ski run of the Sierra! Also check out climber's right couloir for a steeper/narrower/more offcamber ski run. Great line! Mar 24, 2011
Rude Boy
San Francisco, CA
  Easy 5th AI2
Rude Boy   San Francisco, CA
  Easy 5th AI2
Made belays on the left side on the rock with small to medium stoppers for most of the belays. The final one at the top took a #1 Camalot and some large tricams. Rock quality sucked except for the last belay. May 23, 2013
Josh Allred
Salt Lake City, UT
Josh Allred   Salt Lake City, UT
Anyone try this in November? I am thinking of giving it a go when I am in CA Nov 25-29. Nov 13, 2013

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