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Routes in Roshambo Ledge

Drill Beats Rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rattlesnake Airline S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rock Beats Death T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roshambo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Updog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Venus Flytrap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Winslow, Schlocker, Braihland
Page Views: 1,960 total, 20/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Sep 5, 2009
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The Ramona Wall and Miller Time Walls have seasonal closure Dec 15 through August 31 Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

2 fairly long pitches of crack climbing up the center of the Ramona wall. From fingers to chimney and everyting in between.

P1(10a) Up the steep wide hands crack to a chimney with small gear in the back. After the chimney up and left to a comfy belay ledge at the base of the P2 dihedral. Alternatively, traverse left before squeezing into the chimney to gain a hand crack which leads directly up to the same belay.

P2(9) Clean but slippery finger crack in a right facing dihedral. Near the top the route follows broken rock right around a roof. Build a gear anchor or, only if nobody is below you, set a belay at the rap station ~40 feet out right.

Walk to climbers right ~40 feet to a rap station that is a rope stretcher with a 60 meter rope back to Roshambo ledge. Be very careful at the end of this very long rappel.

Location

Starts at the far left side of the Roshambo Ledge. Short 4th class approach. The lower pitch starts at the steep hand crack and the upper pitch is a clean right facing dihedral that can be seen from the ground.

Protection

Small to 3".

Route Name History

Mark, Dan and I played Roshambo (rock-paper-scissors) for the pitches on the FA.
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
  5.10-
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
  5.10-
TRd this today for sake of time and to check it out: can't wait to get back and lead it. P2 is quality IMO, but I found it to be pretty easy at 5.9--finger locks aplenty and nice textured face out right (not too vertical) for feet. It would eat nuts. Lower crack on P1 including the "alt" to the chimney were pretty straight forward and would be easy to protect. I have pretty average (even smallish) hands and the initial crack seemed perfect size. Very textured and secure, if a bit bulgy/overhung. The upper P1 crack (alt route) seemed a bit tough at first because it' s shallow and broken--then you notice the great feet. It's thoughtful, but not really powerful or "hard". Dec 10, 2013
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
For P1 you can traverse left out of the base of the chimney to climb up more 10a hand crack as a good variation. This is probably safer but more difficult than the chimney which is a little run out up top. Oct 4, 2010