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Waking Up In Duluth

5.9, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 10 votes
FA: James Garrett and Felix Hörmann, 2 August 2009
Minnesota > Duluth Area > Ely's Peak > Tunnel Bluff
Warning Access Issue: Access Restriction: Parking DetailsDrop down

Description

Tunnel Bluff South West Face. The crux is probably finding a dry, mosquito free day, but this climb, despite the controversy it may create from the local climbing ethics police will be enjoyed by many. It is fun, clean (for the moment!), and well protected. No "set ups" required.

Pitch #1: Get immediately into the beautiful right facing dihedral finger crack, jog right to a bolt and surmount an overhang (awesome movement!) ending on some slab moves to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 15m.

Location

Tunnel Bluff South West Face. Hike to the landmark tunnel as described. Hike up a small path on the right side (south) for 2 minutes to the base of the route. One may elect to start climbing directly from the path or scramble up a few meters to belay below the right facing dihedral crack.

Protection

Set of small camming units (C3s or TCUs), Nuts and QDs for 3 bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

During the first ascent of the route
[Hide Photo] During the first ascent of the route
A very nice finger crack albeit all too short to face to roof to slab revealed status post clean up.
[Hide Photo] A very nice finger crack albeit all too short to face to roof to slab revealed status post clean up.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] What does "no set ups required" mean? I'm guessing that means this is the only route at this location that has a bolted anchor- is that correct? Jun 7, 2014
James Garrett
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I guess i was being a cynic as when we were climbing in Duluth, everyone kept talking about "set ups" in referring to "top rope set ups". This route can be comfortably led with a light rack and some quickdraws:):):). Did you do it, then? Jul 11, 2014
Mike Kubes
Fort Collins
 
[Hide Comment] Solid route! Used BD 1&2 C3's for the lower section (nuts would also work). Definitely one of the better routes on the Tunnel Bluff in my opinion. Mar 13, 2016