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Flake Route
5.7,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.1 from 24
votes
FA: NOLS 73
Wyoming
> Sweetwater Rocks
> Moonstone
> Main Moonstone
Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Description
Pitch 1: Belay up as high to the left leaning corner system as possible, after a short scramble. Face and undercling out corner, then continue up to small ledge cut out after the corner goes straight up for a ways.
Pitch 2: Continue up left facing corner as the face gets lower angle. Belay where convenient.
Pitch 3: Follow last of corner to where it rolls over and melts into the face. Follow face to top and when the face goes to more walking than climbing, build a belay and bring up the partner.
Great views, nice position, good protection and good rock.
Fun!
Location
Located on the right side of the Moonstone Slab. Obvious left facing corner system with a cutout near the bottom.
Walk down easy slabs to the east and north to regain the base of the route.
Protection
Standard Rack (cams and stoppers). No fixed gear or anchors on route.
Lander, WY
Fort Collins, CO