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Routes in Pinnacle

Pinnacle Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sun Dog T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Madsen & Brian Carroll September 1987
Page Views: 217 total · 2/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Sep 4, 2009
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

Neat route, which is the standard, easiest way to the summit of this free standing spire.

Start at the chimney on the south side of the Pinnacle, climb the face past three lead bolts. Step around to the left and onto a shallow ledge. Follow cracks/weaknesses to the summit on the west face of the spire.

Take care for some loose/crumbly rock.

Neat position, fun climbing, and a nice spire summit all make for a great, short little route.

Location

Route starts on the south face of the Pinnacle, on the face to the left of the deep chimney formed by the Pinnacle and main wall of Barretts.

Rappel from summit from fixed rappel anchors (3 bolts plus chain).

Protection

3 lead bolts, standard rack (selection of small/medium cams and set of stoppers). Fixed anchor on top for the rappel back down the West Face of the spire.

Photos

Tyler Froelich
Provo, Utah
 
Tyler Froelich   Provo, Utah
 
Great place to pull off I-15 to stretch your legs for a quick/easy climb. The campsite looks very clean and enjoyable, too. As stated above, the bolts are homemade with angle iron, and the first both is a little high, but the climbing is easy. There are anchors after the 3 bolts, so you could climb to this point and lower/top rope and make this a short sport route. Climbing past these anchors to the top requires some gear. The second half of this climb is fun and has some unexpected exposure. The chains on top don't reach over the edge of the face of this climb. You'll either need long slings/cord to extend the anchor over the edge, or belay your second from the top and try to minimize wear on the rope. Rap off the opposite face that you climbed up on (chains will reach over this edge). Mar 27, 2017
tomad01  
I lead this route in the fall of 1987. The first time before I added the bolts on the lower face I tranversed off of the chockstone half way up the face to the corner and cleaned a large flake opening up the ledge to place the frist pieace of gear on the upper face. Brian Carrol was with me and we rapped off by placing the rope around a skecthy sortof chickenhead. We went back later and bolted the lower face and the top. We used hangers we made out of angle iron. I also ldid the short 5.9 route up the riverside of the spire. Oct 24, 2012