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Routes in Broken Nose Boulder

Barbeque Chips V5 6C
Project V9-10 7C+
Sinus Drip V1 5
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 320 total, 3/month
Shared By: Dana Seaton on Sep 4, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route

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This goes in two parts, it needs a link! Climb a crimpy, stand start left of looming, overhanging, and blank prow.




- No Photos -
I tried this unsuccessfully about a month ago. It's a really cool, obvious feature. I found the section at head height to be really hard (and condition-dependent). The style felt similar (but harder) than Check Your Head at Pawtuckaway. The sit start from under the missing wedge feature is definitely doable. I thought the easiest beta (still quite difficult) was to move up from the stacked flat edges, busting left to the potato chip that serves as the neighboring problems RH start, then use a marginal RH gaston to go huge into a tiny but incut gaston about 9' up on the arete before matching this hold and topping out. There are some very marginal sidepulls on the right side of the arete at face level, but the lack of feet between the sit start hands/feet and the lack of a distinct left hand to oppose made this seem even more improbable. Jan 5, 2016
Joe M.    
#3 on the beta photo. Someone really needs to send this, such a cool looking line. May 28, 2015