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Routes in The Anvil

Pounding Herradura T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JA
Page Views: 988 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jeremy Aslaksen on Sep 4, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climbs the thin crack/dihedral seen from the road.

Location

Drive until you get to the Anvil. Park your car and look up.

Protection

Cams. Nuts.

Photos

We climbed the line on the NE side, as shown in Ben's photo, which I gather is not Pounding Herradura. In any case, I wouldn't recommend this line to anyone. The decomposing crack was the worst rock I have climbed in the VOG yet. Yikes. If anyone is still inclined to make a summit bid, you can make a decent anchor using hand sized pieces in a decomposing stack of choss. Nov 12, 2016
Sorry about the confusion!
First of all, I love the Mascot on top....way cool. We need more of that kind of stuff on desert tower tops.
As for Hx of the route, Christopher W Donharl (aka The Harl-19yo at the time!) and I had spent quite a bit of the January 2000 there in Valley Of The Gods while on the road trip of road trips on our way to El Potrero (where we had pounded more than a little of the Herradura, btw). In March, he decided to stay on longer and I returned to the roadside chunk of rock that looked like an Anvil on the way back home. The route I chose and the line I had previously scoped was visible from the roadside. It also seemed to be the better quality rock and to be the line of least resistance.

The report to Eric may have been incorrect as to orientation, but I believe it is correctly shown as per location (it looks like the line to me?) on page 361 of DR IV.

The two-bolt rappel station pointed to by Jeremy in the photo of the Anvil also looks familiar. Apparently, Jeremy and Ben also found the bolt low down which I used to self belay.

Finally, this tiny tower hardly deserves all the attention that Jeremy and Ben's other more impressive Utah desert accomplishments should, but hearing or reading about the accurate historical record is always entertaining for me! Appreciate the story!
If the route you guys did was on the other side of where the belay bolt and rap station is, then please re-submit it into the data....because it would imply a new line indeed.
Thanks

Jan 23, 2013
Well I can tell you that there were carabiners that were spray painted blue on the anchor. A usually think of those as yours. Jan 23, 2013
OK I was a little confused before and now I'm really confused.

Here is what I know...
-In DR4 it says that Pounding Herradurra faces SW (which faces away from the road), while the corner that in the picture in DR4 that Jeremy and I climbed faces NE.
-There is no bolt on the NE corner route and no anchor on top of the corner.
-The only rappel anchor that we found on the summit was on a route that faced SW and had a bolt down low. (sorry if it was unclear, but we rappelled from an anchor down the SW side)

James we need some help here. Jan 23, 2013
Nice route Jeremy!
It's probably gone free before but we freed it yesterday at 5.10 with a little jog left about 3/4 of the way up. Bill freed the direct line on top rope at 5.11. Little heads up in spots because of the loose character of the route.
I brought a double set from .3 to 3 camalot, plus a couple smaller cams and a #4 and #5. Jan 19, 2013