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One Of These Days
5.10c,
Trad, 115 ft (35 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 117
votes
FA: Karl McConachie
California
> Lake Tahoe
> Carson Pass Hig…
> Woodfords Canyon
> Cloudburst Canyon
> One Of These Days But…
Description
The crux: It's probably the sustained climbing esp after pulling the roof.
What's good: (a) it's well protected, (b) it's varied- from finger cracks to roof to hand jambs to overhang to chimney- a little (or a lot) of everything for 115', (c) it's got an anchor with chains so you can top rope it with a 70m.
Location
One Of These Days is located on the north side of the buttress.
Protection
Trad. Pro to 2.5". Anchor with chains. No protection bolts.
[Hide Photo] Photos don't do the overhang justice. This is on ya the whole time. Remarkably consistent with maybe 4 cruxes. It's definitely a crack but feels more sporty. Be ready with TONS of gear. And no…
[Hide Comment] THE BEST 5.10 crack in the Tahoe area. A must do for the 5.10 leader. Take care in lowering from the chains even with a 70 meter rope, it's close.
Sep 6, 2009
[Hide Comment] One of the best single pitches at the grade that I've ever done! Sustained and pumpy, but just when you need them a bomber fingerlock or handjam or jug will appear, keeping it from ever getting really desperate.
Jun 10, 2010
[Hide Comment] I was up there in the early ninties with Dano and Tom Gilje- who hadnt been up there before, he led it with three pieces i think...His feet even blew above the roof wayyyy out from pro- Dano looked over and said "hes a freekin NUT"...took him maybe five minutes..
Jan 28, 2011
[Hide Comment] no joke on the 70m. my slightly chopped 70 didn't exactly reach. Had to tie in on the upper boulder then stretch it down to the start for TR.
What a freaking classic line. Wonderfully sustained with a few moderate cruxes. Pulling the roof isn't as bad as it may look. Most fun. Really just holding out through the end is the crux. Great power-endurance trainer!
Only a few sections with suspect rock (the undercling flake, just before the obvious giant flake, really should be considered for removal. Big enough to really do damage to anyone below or even cut the rope if it went. I put a big chalk "X" on it to at least make new travelers aware that it's questionable.
Incredibly sustained and anyone who leads this deserves some giant feathers in their cap. Alex Mellon told me he plugged ~ 25 pieces. Good lord.
Jun 28, 2012
[Hide Comment] It's crazy that locals in the Tahoe area aren't hitting this in droves. Every time I've been to the area, no one is lining up for this route, in fact usually we are the only car in the canyon.... Gotta love woodfords.
If you're 5.11 this thing is just gonna cruise at perfect .10 the whole way for you. If you've climbed it before, it's going to feel like perfect .10 for you.
If you climb .10, and have bought into the deserved hype of this route, then your OS attempt is going to be absolutely on you the whole way. A proud onsight for the 5.10 climber for sure. Unfortunately I am not in that OS club.
[Hide Comment] Super cool route; don't know what Branden is talking about upthread! I climbed it, and then I immediately climbed it again. And I'm sure I'll be back to climb it some more!
Feels hard for the grade, but probably isn't a sandbag. It's just sustained and steeper than your average 5.10 trad climb, so the top half feels quite tiring. Lots of good jugs, jams, and gear though.
Oct 19, 2015
[Hide Comment] Disagree with RDA that nothing needs to be cleaned from this route. Several large flakes that are going to come off one of these days. Number of accents guarantees nothing. Fantastic nonetheless, just tread lightly in certain sections.
Jul 11, 2020
[Hide Comment] This route is the key to stepping into higher grades and different styles of trad climbing. I owe a lot to this route and still use it for those high endurance lap days. Gear is pretty standard doubles .3-3 and set of nuts... Bring at least 5 full length and a double length sling to prevent rope drag at the roof. It's technical, powerful, steep, etc. Every style thats fun is on this route. Bring a 70m... 80m makes the top rope belay super comfy!
Dec 5, 2020
[Hide Comment] Amazing climb! Took me a few days of top-roping to work up the courage for the lead. It's definitely a long and pumpy one. Doubles .3-3 and you can use a #4 at the very top if you feel like lugging it, but not totally necessary. As mentioned, there are a few large flakes on this one that might come off at some point but they didn't budge when we climbed it. Definitely worth the hype!
Jun 14, 2023
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Austin, TX —> Fort Collins,…
What a freaking classic line. Wonderfully sustained with a few moderate cruxes. Pulling the roof isn't as bad as it may look. Most fun. Really just holding out through the end is the crux. Great power-endurance trainer!
Only a few sections with suspect rock (the undercling flake, just before the obvious giant flake, really should be considered for removal. Big enough to really do damage to anyone below or even cut the rope if it went. I put a big chalk "X" on it to at least make new travelers aware that it's questionable.
Incredibly sustained and anyone who leads this deserves some giant feathers in their cap. Alex Mellon told me he plugged ~ 25 pieces. Good lord. Jun 28, 2012
Cottage grove oregon
Reno, NV
If you're 5.11 this thing is just gonna cruise at perfect .10 the whole way for you. If you've climbed it before, it's going to feel like perfect .10 for you.
If you climb .10, and have bought into the deserved hype of this route, then your OS attempt is going to be absolutely on you the whole way. A proud onsight for the 5.10 climber for sure. Unfortunately I am not in that OS club.
Get on this route right now! May 31, 2014
Bishop, CA
Feels hard for the grade, but probably isn't a sandbag. It's just sustained and steeper than your average 5.10 trad climb, so the top half feels quite tiring. Lots of good jugs, jams, and gear though. Oct 19, 2015
Oakland
BLC
Van
NV
Use those quiet feet. Aug 13, 2022
South Lake Tahoe