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Routes in Main Wall

Blood of Brahm, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Circus Midget S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Guillotine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Holy Crap T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Perro De La Guerra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Perro Del Amore S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Pyramid, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ticked Off. S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: DE etc?
Page Views: 3,214 total, 32/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Sep 2, 2009
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A fun, plumb bob of a route which ascends a neat line up improbable steepness.

Climb lower angle blocky and kind of tricky slab and shallow cracks to first bolt below roof with crack splitting face above. Climb up through roof, staying to the right of the prow to left. Step left where convenient (joining Flying Guillotine), and, traverse up the bolt protected face on reachy, spaced out jugs on the steep wall.

Climb up through shallow roof (easier than it looks!) and either step left to finish on the open cold shut anchor (top of Perro De La Guerra), or, sling that anchor long and step right to the low angle layback/undercling and follow that to a shallow alcove corner crack.

Clip the last bolt then step up and hit the semi flared finger crack to the chains.

Variations that might be useful: clip first bolt, then step up right and clip the next two bolts on the adjacent route to the right, Circus Midget. Then, step back left and finish as per the above.

Location

Located just left of the geographical center bottom of the crag. Rappel route.

Protection

8 bolts to two bolt/chain anchor. Medium cams would protect the lower angle traverse to the right.
Ancent
Reno, NV
  5.10b
Ancent   Reno, NV
  5.10b
Awesome varied climb. The originally top anchor that's listed in the book no longer exists. The description here is correct, but don't bail out early to the left open shuts! The best part is undercling that goes out right. It protects with a .75 and the top flared crack takes any finger-sized piece (although they're unnecessary with the topmost bolt). The climb is listed as a .9 in the book. It's not a 10+ as it says on MP. The hardest moves are the finger crack at the top, but the jams are solid. Mar 25, 2016