Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Steve Arsenault, Charlie Fowler, and Mike Munger, 1977
Page Views: 2,093 total · 15/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Sep 1, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

Finding this route is not a problem for the Winds due to its distinctive appearance, but route finding up high on the route may be somewhat tricky as essentially one encounters no fixed gear up this long line. We did the route in 9 long (every pitch >50m) pitches. Very sustained and complicated by lots of grass hummock filled hand cracks leaves one to ponder how rarely this classic for the area gets ascended.

The last strenuous pitch is a pump! It is testament to the Arsenault Fowler team strength that rated it a mere 5.9!!

Location

Gash Peak is North Ambush or the high point immediately to the north of Ambush. a very committing route once high, descend on the ridge line to the saddle just south of Ambush back to the East Fork Valley.

Protection

Full set of Camalots from C3 to #5 ad set of nuts. Some piton belays found low on the route. Arsenault told me up in the cirque that he always carries a hammer with a few pins on Ambush...mostly to refix the ones in situ, however, you won't find many pins on this route.

Photos