Type: Trad, Aid, 170 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Duncan, Steve Anderton
Page Views: 1,406 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Aug 31, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route ascends the crack system on the east face.

Pitch 1: Ascend to the saddle between the spire and the butte behind, C2.

Pitch 2: Climb up some big steps to a chimney, climb the chimney to a drilled pin, pendulum down and left until a thin crack is within reach (tiny cams). Climb the C1 or 5.11 thin crack to hands (5.9), then fist and offwidth (5.9) to a nice ledge and belay. Take two fat ropes for this pitch to be safe. Use one for the climb through the pendulum, then the other after the pendulum.

Pitch 3: Climb C1 past a couple of drilled baby angle holes, a couple of 5.7 moves brings you to the summit.

Descent: One full rope length rappel to the east from two drilled anchors.

Location

Moonlight is located in Jackson Hole, south of the Amasa Back. This is southwest of Moab a few miles as the birds see it. Jackson hole is a Rincon, and Moonlight is hidden on the east side of the island of rock in the middle of the Rincon. You can take a tube, canoe or raft and float across from the Potash mine (this is the shortest approach), or hike there via one of two ways. You can also drive there (high clearance only!) by taking Kane Springs Valley Road to Hurrah Pass. Descend the other side of the pass and turn right (west) at the first drivable drainage (near river level). Go down the wash about 1/2 a mile (.8km), then turn right (north) and follow a (faint at first) two-track which crosses another drainage before heading northeast for awhile then gradually turns back to the west. It then veers north and begins the descent into Jackson Hole where a loop goes around the Rincon.

Protection

Standard desert rack with extra very small and very large gear. A selection of knifeblades and angles up to 5/8" or equivalent clean gear.

Photos