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Critical Crimps

5.10a, Trad, 125 ft (38 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 28 votes
FA: August 27, 2009
New York > Adirondacks > G: Indian Lake… > Crane Mountain > Black Arches Wall

Description

Climb the slab to the short, steep headwall. Pull this toward the right side (bolt-protected crux), then ascend low-angle rock to the steeper face above. Up this via delicate knobs to the large horizontal under the overhang.
Pull overhang and step right into the "Attic" where you can use the anchors to belay, or continue upward through the notch left of the roof to the top (original ascent, but the anchors are more convenient).

Location

Low point of the cliff. This can be accessed via a scramble downward from near Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It, or by rappeling off the "Patio".

Protection

Mixture of cams and quickdraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jamie McNeill nears the finish line.
[Hide Photo] Jamie McNeill nears the finish line.
Jeremy Haas on Critical Crimps. At least I'm pretty sure it is Critical Crimps. Jay?
[Hide Photo] Jeremy Haas on Critical Crimps. At least I'm pretty sure it is Critical Crimps. Jay?
Jamie McNeill leads the FA of Critical Crimps.
[Hide Photo] Jamie McNeill leads the FA of Critical Crimps.
Jason Brechko nearing the overhangs of Critical Crimps. This pic covers the entire route; the crux is low, just right of and below center.
[Hide Photo] Jason Brechko nearing the overhangs of Critical Crimps. This pic covers the entire route; the crux is low, just right of and below center.
Jamie Macneil on the FA of Critical Crimps
[Hide Photo] Jamie Macneil on the FA of Critical Crimps

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Stellar line, 5 stars for sure. You can lower with a 70m rope from the "Attic". Aug 15, 2010
Jon Clark
Planet Earth
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] You can lower with a 60m. Make sure the second is tied in. Some simul scrambling is necessary. Aug 23, 2011
Nick W
Orford, NH
[Hide Comment] Excellent climb. Tricky technical move down low, followed by beautiful face climbing and a small roof up high. Nov 11, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] One of the best face climbs I've ever climbed. Can traverse in from Second Job if bouldery starts aint your thing. Sep 3, 2012
Benjamin Brooke
San Pedro, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Awesome must do five star yes yes. one the best lines ive ever climbed in my short career. Sep 10, 2012
[Hide Comment] Broken hold just before top out definitely makes this climb even better without changing grade, well protected second crux. Awesome! Aug 26, 2013
Shane Kenyon
Adirondacks
 
[Hide Comment] The jugs on the overhang are just great. You can confidently swing into the Attic 100' off the deck as a nice reward after the delicate face climbing below. Nice Gunks feel (albeit with a MUCH longer approach - haha). Aug 13, 2018