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Critical Crimps
5.10a,
Trad, 125 ft (38 m),
Avg: 3.9 from 28
votes
FA: August 27, 2009
New York
> Adirondacks
> G: Indian Lake…
> Crane Mountain
> Black Arches Wall
Description
Climb the slab to the short, steep headwall. Pull this toward the right side (bolt-protected crux), then ascend low-angle rock to the steeper face above. Up this via delicate knobs to the large horizontal under the overhang.
Pull overhang and step right into the "Attic" where you can use the anchors to belay, or continue upward through the notch left of the roof to the top (original ascent, but the anchors are more convenient).
Location
Low point of the cliff. This can be accessed via a scramble downward from near Eatin' Tripe and Lichen It, or by rappeling off the "Patio".
Protection
Mixture of cams and quickdraws.
[Hide Photo] Jamie McNeill nears the finish line.
[Hide Photo] Jeremy Haas on Critical Crimps. At least I'm pretty sure it is Critical Crimps. Jay?
[Hide Photo] Jamie McNeill leads the FA of Critical Crimps.
[Hide Photo] Jason Brechko nearing the overhangs of Critical Crimps. This pic covers the entire route; the crux is low, just right of and below center.
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