[Hide Comment] no gear for the first 30ft unless you uses some tri-cam. Super fun gets 4 or 5 stars in the supertopo giude. Nov 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] Second that. First 30 feet very thin on gear and hard enough any 5.8 leader should think twice if they have any doubts. Rest of climb is G and quality. Top rope was a little tricky but only 4th class to access the top of the route. 70m a must for TR. Sep 17, 2011

[Hide Comment] Quality is excellent. Great hand jams half way up. Stiff crux.
We actually top roped it with a 60m rope. I guess it depends how high you put the gear anchor. Aug 6, 2012

[Hide Comment] The start looks spooky from below but my leader managed to get lots of reasonable (though maybe not bomb-proof) cams in. The crux is simple using knees! Sep 12, 2012

[Hide Comment] I found the first 20 ft actually protect quite well with Metolius TCUs. Agreed that 60m minimum is necessary for TR. Class 3 walk-off towards the left at the top. Jun 27, 2013

[Hide Comment] I had no trouble placing gear first 30 feet. I do remember running out of cams for the route, getting real creative at the end. Mar 30, 2014

[Hide Comment] Not R rated like supertopo book suggest. Agree with Vit regarding first 20 ft. protects really well with TCUs. My first piece was a red TCU that was actually hard to get out on the rappel. 2nd piece was an orange TCU then after are finger to hand size placements.

I think a 5.8 leader doesn't need to think twice about this route. Good pin scars for holds and good feet while placing gear down low. Crux is at top pulling pass a bulge. No need to use knees, use that hand and toe jam. Jul 5, 2015

[Hide Comment] bomber tricams for the start, and cams as well. route description could do without the "halfway" crux beta instructional spray, which may well differ from what others consider the crux anyway Jul 19, 2015

[Hide Comment] This was a fun, somewhat varied climb. The climb has ample opportunities for protection the entire way. I got a bomber blue/yellow offset mastercam in the first 8 feet or so. Although, a regular cam of similar size would have worked fine, this climb simply doesn't warrant the R that Supertopo gives it, not even a PG13.

I actually felt the 5.8 moves were pretty soft for the area, don't hesitate on this one. Sep 1, 2015

[Hide Comment] I used small cams for the start (.5 and .75 BD I believe). With good small cams, this is a very safe climb. Enjoy! Jul 25, 2017

[Hide Comment] First time I've used my C4s passively. Cam em, stick em in the holes, and enjoy not being run out in the first 40' Jul 16, 2018

[Hide Comment] I didn't think the bottom of this climb was severely runout. Some weird placements in pin scars (passive C4s) but solid. Fun climb! Jul 30, 2018

[Hide Comment] The "unprotectable" pods protect super easily with totems. No runout whatsoever! Jun 6, 2022