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Routes in The Cathedral Cave

Ball Hog A3
Devil Made Me Dog It, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grandmother's Challenge S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Molson's Madness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pin Snatcher A3
Sanctuary S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Jerry Handren, 1992
Page Views: 1,227 total, 12/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Aug 31, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Middle of the cave there is a protruding block, this is the start of the climb. Look close and you can see bat hook holes from Space Case, as the aid route was known. Climb the block and clip a bolt, make a powerful mantle/rockover move (I clip the second bolt mid mantle) into some good holds. Clip 1 more bolt and set up for the crux reach on good if small holds. One more bolt and commit to the exit onto the block belay. One bolt make the anchor.

Location

Middle of the cave between The Mercy and Grandmother's Challenge.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Thanks for setting me straight Jerry. The hold I'm referring to is the jug just before the crux. It looks as though it was chipped out of the chossey band of rock it was in, there were even 2 circular wholes in the bank that look and offal lot like drill holes. I certainly trust your word though and will chock these impressions up to a hold that "looks" manufactured in a place with a bad rap for chipping. Sep 12, 2010
There are no chipped holds on this route, so I don't know where "obviously manufactured" comes from. Possibly some grinding from Dry toolers.

If fact rumours of chipping in the cave went way over the top. Stevie chipped The Mercy, I reinforced that big flake on Sanctuary with glue (apparently liquid nails works pretty well since its still there !!) and beat a crumbling finger edge into a solid sloper up high, but that was the only chipping that I'm aware of, none of the other routes had any chipping at all. Sep 12, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
This route is so aptly named! Party of me loves it for the moves and fun falls. The other half hates the part of me that loves such an obviously manufactured route :/ Sep 12, 2010
it will go and it gone did.... Oct 26, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
it just won't go!!!!!!! Oct 26, 2009
Pat McGinn
  5.12a/b
Pat McGinn  
  5.12a/b
There is a two bolt ring anchor now. Sep 21, 2009