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Routes in Band M (Opened Dec 2017)

3 Wogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butcher Block T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Finally Dunn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
General Hospital A3
Heavy Weather Sailing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hercules S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
If Dogs Run Free T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Work T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Machina Ex Deus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Malt Therapy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Over Done T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Understatement, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of Hercules S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Way Radical T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Aid, 120 ft
FA: F/A Tom Callaghan// John Mallery '81
Page Views: 443 total, 4/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Aug 31, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Access now starts on Rt 16 by Tangelwood Motel, not on Rt 113 Details


Fun aid climbing up an undalating slab to a bolt, reachy thin climbing up a corner to a roof. Traverse right into a mungy crack/seam, tricky gear and nailing to the top of the crack. There is an OLD fixed pin at the top of the crack, tie this off and start to hook out left to a groove. Continue hooking up the groove till the features end. Climb the 5.7 slab to the awesome belay ledge shared by 3 Bit Hooker. Don't fall while free climbing as it'll be a long one!


To the right of Bandit, directly to the right of the 3 Bit Hooker groove.


Standard aid rack (hooks and pins) and a single rack of cams and micro nuts.


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ive toproped all but 1 move on this route...the upper crack is STEEP Dec 30, 2010
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
shhhhh. i have plans for this one, it doesn't involve me climbing it. But it involves me belaying someone on it.

John, do you know anything about the aid climb imediately to the left of the start to standard rt. It would also be the first route to the left of Heavy Weather. Rivets, to rotten crap, to a beatiful seam up high. Mar 16, 2010
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
much of this climb will go free Mar 16, 2010
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Thanks! Sep 30, 2009