Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 29,108 total · 198/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Aug 30, 2009
Admins: Eric Bluemn, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

An excellent topo is posted in the photo section. This description is a supplement to that. As has been thoroughly mentioned, the former summit block has fallen and altered the route slightly. Do not despair, the route still retains good character.

Pitch 1: Climb a short step to gain the corner proper. Continue up the corner at mostly 5.7 with a few 5.8 moves thrown in. The last portion of the pitch is wide (#4 C4) and then you gain a decent ledge with a gear belay. 190'.

Pitch 2: Another longer wide section off the ledge(#4 again, but small nuts protect crack out left, along with semi-tipped out #3 at top work okay) puts you below a crackless roof. A fixed nut protects the fun roof move. Continue up easy ramps to gain a long section of blue-collar blocky corner climbing. Belay in a slot below the obvious tunnel. 190'

Pitch 3: This pitch is a gimme. Tunnel up through a hole in the rock to a ledge. Avoid the terrible looking chimney and make your way climber's left to access a few steep moves below the saddle. Belay here or alternatively you can continue up and to the right through broken ground and loose rock (after the summit block fell in 2020) to the base of the crack system at the headwall. This is labeled as p4 in the topo but is easily linked to a length of ~150 feet. 

Pitch 4: Climb up the twin cracks and flake towards the right side of the headwall. When the angle eases up there is a section of 5.easy slab that is mostly unprotectable (some creative pro exists). Step across a gap and ascend an unprotectable but easy arete to a large ledge below the summit block and build an anchor (150 feet). 

Summit Block: Since the previous summit block fell during earthquakes in 2020, now there is one block left on the south side of the Finger. This can be climbed with a single unprotectable 5.7 move for some good summit photos. 

Descent: The goal is to make it from the summit ledge to the ridge leading west. Currently two options exist. Option 1 is to rap off of a large slung chockstone below the summit block. This goes through some slightly sketchy rock and a large hollow flake to reach a ledge. From the ledge you can climb broken rock and make a big step-across to gain the west ridge (class 4). Alternatively, you can rap from tat tied around a small, unattached rock on the summit ledge directly to the west ridge. This seems sketchy given the size of the unattached block serving as your anchor, but feel free to choose your own adventure. Once on the west ridge you'll find a large tree with rap slings. From here make a short rappel to another slung tree on rappeler's right. The third rappel will bring you to the ground in some very loose dirt and talus. 

Location

If you drove to Upper Hell Roaring Trailhead, hike 1/4 mile to the confluence with the main trail that started at the lower trailhead. If you started at the lower trailhead, hike 2 miles to this point.

From the two trails intersection, hike 2 miles to Hell Roaring(HR) Lake on really flat terrain. Upon reaching the lake, a view of the finger can be seen for the first time by looking directly west.
From the lake, find the trail that leads to the toilet(marked) and follow this trail(not super distinct, but good enough) all the way to the west end of the lake. It skirts the lake quite closely. (Note: This is not the trail that leads to Redfish Lake, which is marked upon arrival at HR Lake)
When you reach the west end where a stream enters the lake, head north on the same trail up very steep terrain for about a half mile. You will eventually reach a pond, and then a bigger blue unnamed lake. The finger will be quite close now.
From this lake, hike around the south end on a trail, and take the path of least resistance up the drainage southeast of the finger, avoiding the cliffs east of the finger. Skirt the base of the finger heading north, then west up steep scree to the base of the route, which is the obvious clean 45 degree corner/diehdral on the north side of the finger. Time from trail intersection: 2.5 hours, (4-5 miles?)

Protection

1 60 meter rope. Standard rack is more than adequate. Most will want a #4 camalot or equivalent, but not required. Lots of runners. Topo shows their gear recommendation.

Photos